French Direct Comments

Viewing: 1-19 of 19

Andino - Sep 26, 2007 3:02 am - Voted 10/10


splendid page !


mtnman455 - Sep 26, 2007 3:12 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Bravo...

Thanks Myzantrope!


Andino - Sep 26, 2007 4:25 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Bravo...

and congrats for the ascent ;o)


Bor - Sep 26, 2007 3:52 am - Voted 10/10

Good and well informative!

Thanks for posting this important route. Good and useful description with nice photos!



mtnman455 - Sep 26, 2007 3:54 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Good and well informative!

Hey, Thanks for looking at it. I couldn't believe the route had yet to be posted, so I took the liberty!


Scott - Sep 26, 2007 5:29 pm - Voted 10/10

Awesome page

Wish I was there-right now.


mtnman455 - Sep 26, 2007 6:25 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Awesome page

Yes, I wouldn't mind going back!


Deb - Sep 26, 2007 7:53 pm - Voted 10/10

Like the page..

..even though I've never been to Alpamayo, this is a beautiful mountain and your pics are really awesome.


mtnman455 - Sep 27, 2007 1:00 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Like the page..

Deb, you really should go. It is sometimes crowded but an amazing mountain, none the less. And besides Alpamayo there are many amazing mountains in the whole range. You could spend a lifetime there.

Dan Dalton

Dan Dalton - Sep 26, 2007 9:00 pm - Voted 10/10

This is truly..

a great page. Awesome info, great high def pics of the route, and amazing line. Thanks for the contribution to SP!!!



mtnman455 - Sep 27, 2007 1:01 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: This is truly..

Thanks Dan, are you gearing up for ice climbing season? It is almost here!


MoapaPk - Sep 27, 2007 12:28 am - Voted 10/10

shows a route, deserves a vote

My general philosophy!


mtnman455 - Sep 27, 2007 1:02 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: shows a route, deserves a vote

Hey Thanks! Not a bad philosophy.


Haliku - Sep 27, 2007 10:54 am - Voted 10/10

Well displayed!

Thanks for a great page on a great route. Excellent photos! I wish I was there... Cheers!


mtnman455 - Sep 27, 2007 1:06 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Well displayed!

Thanks Haliku. You should go there if you get a chance. Just standing at the base of the face after years of dreaming about it was amazing in its self!


kabernicola - Sep 30, 2007 9:28 am - Hasn't voted

what a shame

excellent page, good descriptions but....this route is not the french!!! I know, in every single book they have sign this route as the french but....this is the FERRARI. It was investigated by
Antonio Gomez Bohorquez (he writes about andes information for the american alpine journal)talking with the first climbers of the ferrari... they have pictures with the snowprints on this route when they climbed the mountain...before the frenchs. Evrything is in this book and I´m not kidding, The mistake have been copied from one author to another (when somebody writes a new book they just copy from the last one, without investigating)but now is clarified in this book. If you want to have an accurate page better review this information. Good work anyway!!


mtnman455 - Oct 1, 2007 1:20 am - Hasn't voted

Re: what a shame

I know that the French were not the first to ascend this route as listed in the "Overview" section. Also, I am aware of some name discrepancies on this mountain and I already knew that the route called Ferrari is not the route Ferrari and his team originally ascended. Although it is my understanding that Ferrari did not ascend the "French Direct" but a runnel just left of this route as this information is listed in the book "Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca" by Brad Johnson.

Despite all this, the main problem is that these runnels currently have a common name association which is understood by guides and climbers alike. We could argue all day long about which runnel was ascended by who but in the end Ferrari is still going to be known as the trade route to the left and the French Direct as the runnel that does directly to the summit. If I were to change this page's name to "Ferrari" then I would get blasted by hundreds saying I had the wrong name.


as - Oct 15, 2007 9:04 am - Voted 10/10

Well done !

Good documentation for what is now the "normal route" to Alpamayo.


mtnman455 - Oct 17, 2007 1:34 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Well done !

yeah, "normal" until the cornice breaks off from above Ferrari!

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