1st Pitch- 30m- 5.8/I led both these pitches on the FA/on-site. We took the time to clean this route after the first trip up (more than most of the others). But after waiting three months and getting on it again, I can say it is still plenty dirty. Start up a thin right facing corner (C4 #.4 ) until you reach the shallow chimney. Place gear at will until you reach the top. Stem out onto a solid foot ledge out left. Follow a hand crack from there up to a comfortable belay ledge where a C4 #3 supplements a lone bolt. You could combine these two pitches if you extend any placements well out of the chimney.
Friar, 5.10, 2 Pitches, Padre Canyon, Ivins, UT, 2012