Garfield Mountain - Infinite Bliss

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Infinite Bliss may be infinite but it is not blissful.

On June 21my partner and I were one of four climb teams attempting Infinite Bliss. This was my partners and my first visit to Infinite Bliss. The other three teams had people who have been on the route 2 or 3 times before. One may have completed the route on a prior trip. On this day one of the teams made it to the top of pitch 21 before turning around. We talked with a team that made it to the base of pitch 21 before turning around. The leader of that team said this was his 4^th and would be his last attempt on this “lousy route”. The third team made it to the top of 17 or 18. We completed the 12^th pitch before retreating.

The first problem we had was finding the base of the route. We missed the first and second pitches and joined the route at a mid-point of pitch 3. It appears that many climb parties who have repeatedly attempt the route start at the second pitch. Which is the best start of the climb. Were we started required about 80 feet of unprotected traverse of wet slabs, before we got to the route and another 15
feet of climbing before I reach our first bolt.

The approach trail is about 0.6 miles from the road to the climb. About 50 yards before the start of the climb there is a large cairn made of flat white rocks (by far the largest cairn on the approach trail). The route to the base of the climb continues straight on an unobvious trail, while the “main trail” turns right and up to the base of moss-covered slabs. If you are planning to start at the second pitch, someplace near the base of the slabs you will traverse right to join the climb. We climbed the slabs and made a scary traverse to the rock. Not recommended.

To get to the base of the route’s first pitch continue straight pass the large cairn on the unobvious trail which will soon lead to a trough between the main wall and a small rock ridge with a campfire circle on it. The route starts in the trough somewhat strait below the fire circle. Despite the campfire, and easy access to water I did not see a good spot for a bivy. Outside of that there is no real indication that this is the start of the climb. There is no place for anchors. The first pitch is 120 feet with two bolts. The second bolt is only 30’ or so from the anchor. Neither of which is visible from the base of the climb. My partner saw the first bolt on rappel. I did not. At the base of the climb she could not point it out to me, so I never saw it.

The next issue we faced was wet rock. The 4^th pitch was a case of route finding between slippery wet rocks and reaching for the bolts. A party ahead of us was stalled either on the 5^th or lower part of the 6^th pitch due to a long stretch of unprotected wet rock. At this point we realized that climbing the entire route in a day was not going to happen, so we decided take our time, enjoy the views and complete the first twelve pitches.

Pitches 2 through the fist half of the 6^th pitch would be fun easy slab climbing if dry. One of the veterans Infinite Bliss climber said that there is always at least one section of wet rock on the initial slabs. At the top of 6^th pitch is a gully, which contains a stream, which appears to be a year round water source. (Since we climbed it June, I cannot really say it will have water later in the year.) Top of Pitch 7 is a ledge with ample room for a bivy. But due to rock fall be careful to choose a shelter spot. You may find some safe spots in the trees at one end or the other.

Pitch 8 is easy 5.5 and really fun.

The ledge at the base of pitch 11 is also big enough for a bivy and may be shelter enough to be protected from rock fall, but no water.

Pitch 11, 5.10b well protected and challenging especially if you are carrying a pack. Pitch 12 is only 5.8 but not as protected as one may like.

Top of pitch 12 was our high point. But talking to one of the climber who made it to the top of pitch 20. Pitches 13, 15-17 are only 5.0 or 5.2, but unprotected with no place for trad gear, difficult route finding and covered with loose rocks. Any rocks knock off will bomb the ledge at the top of pitch 7 and the gully at the top of pitch 6. We heard rock fly pass us when we were on the top of pitch 10, we saw rock land near us on the ledge at the top of pitch 7, and a rock hit my partner on the shoulder (not serious) while waiting to rap pitch 6.

What turned one of the parties around, pitch 21, the 5.10a chimney was very wet. I am not sure what turn the other two parties around. They reported to me that pitch 19, the 5.10c was just plan hard, and that the 5.10b pitch (pitch 11) was much more fun.

Though it is possible to do it in a day without scouting it out on a prior trip, I do not think for most climbers that is a reasonable expectation. Unless your really fast, have extremely good route finding abilities and the rock condition is really good I think a plan bivy at the top of pitch 7 or 10 is the way to go if you need to complete this climb on your first visit.

One last thing, there has been debates on whether or not the belay station should be flagged. On the climb up it is definitely a big help. But it is critical on the rappel down especially in dim light. It is extremely difficult, if not impossible to find the rap stations without the flags. I would bring some fluoresce tape to flag the belay/rap station for your return. Without the flags in dim light you may be screwed.