Gargoyle, 5.10a

13th-14th Pitches- 80m- 5.7/ The best rock on Mount Louis? I have been up all the published routes as of 2010 and it might be. Ignore the chimney and climb the beautiful cracks out on the face to the right. This Perren crack is the same finish for several routes, the same as I took for the Gmoser and Kor-Fuller routes. You can split this up in two causal pitches or simul climb a small amount to do it as one. Build your final belay before topping out in some large loose blocks. The only problem with this fine finish is that for some reason, folks want to waste their pitons. If there ever was a great steep gear pitch to learn trad on this is it, but it has been full of fixed gear. However, I did see a lot of that cleaned up in 2010.
Gargoyle, 5.10a, 14 Pitches, Mount Louis, Banff National Park, July, 2010


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