Fantastic solo and one of the best 5.6 routes I have ever done. Very good three pitches followed by one junk (slab) pitch that hooks into the top of West Country. If you want to bring gear, a #5 and #6 work perfectly on this route. Not true chimney or off width really, more just leveraging your right leg/foot for most of the way.
Warm granite, clear skies, route to ourselves, priceless.
Climbed this route then took a long beer break at the edge of Tenaya Lake before going up Hermaphrodite Flake and Boltway. All 3 routes offer generally easy climbing but various sections give huge chimneys, liebacks, friction, face, runouts, easy cracks and tunnels! Climbed with Kali.
Swapped leads with Chris Gibson, who led the second (runout) pitch and the last pitch. Beautiful early fall day.
Came back with flyingmonkeys and climbed this, lead every pitch, very fun! Decided to bring along hilarious big gear, used all of it, still pretty run out. Opted not to belay in the crack for the pitch after the bolts and ran it out significantly over the 5.easy slab at the top of West Country, fun wandering! Nice to see that bolt there, though. Bring the 70 to link those two pitches together, gotta get back to Lee Vining in time for fish tacos at MoMart!
Glad to place the big guy here!
Outstanding route! Beautiful rock, scenery, and the moves aren't incredibly difficult considering the tremendous runout at a multitude of points. Once you're out of the dihedral, if you feel comfortable soloing 5.easy, solo the rest. Not worth pitching it out. You will NEED a minimum Black Diamond Camalot #5 for this, a #6 would be helpful on the dihedral as well.
My first route ever in California--simulclimbed the last pitches due to t-storms approaching.
Had to lead pitch two unprotected as our metolius #10 didn't even touch anywhere. Thinking back I could have stacked some hexes but that didn't occur to me at the time. But as before mentioned, plenty to places to slide your body in and rest. Not a hard route but take the R seriously.
Pitches 2 & 3 accept virtually no pro -- too wide. But -- not really an issue as the Book is so big it is easy to use your entire body as a jam.
June 1992: Partner: Steve Reynolds
3 Sept 1996: Partner: Steve Reynolds