Green Butte Ridge Climber's Log

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ScottyP - Jan 25, 2015 9:05 pm Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2015

wind WINDWind

After making a wrong turn at Bunny I found myself high above AG, must be GB ! I continued above crossing gendarmes where I could and getting cliffed out often. I was solo, so it was an adventure. Got above the thumb before high winds turned me around.


mrchad9 - Jun 21, 2012 4:25 pm Date Climbed: Apr 8, 2012

Scenic  Sucess!

With ElGreco and as he described. The camp was very scenic as expected, and weather was cold, windy, and horrific overall above 13,000 feet (where most parties turned around). Summit was completely engulfed in rime.


ElGreco - May 6, 2012 2:14 am Date Climbed: Apr 8, 2012

Green Butte to Sargent's  Sucess!

With Chad. A windy spring weekend. Camped on the ridge. Turned back a little before Thumb Rock when altitude/asthma hit me and I felt like I couldn't get air in. The route is a winner - beautiful views, especially traversing on the E side around the gendarmes after the intersection with Sargent's. The crux was a short, mixed Class 4 chimney on the W side of the ridge after that traverse. Technical difficulties end after that.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Jul 1, 2011 3:22 pm

x2  Sucess!

Once as a dayhikie in 2011 with avy gulch descent. Other time as an overnight with a descent back via GB ridge. Fun ridge. More fun than Casaval in my opinion.

pjc30943 - Jun 30, 2011 5:29 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2011

Fun route, strange snow  Sucess!

GB/SR is a really fun route with mostly quality scrambling, and a very few short 4th/5th class sections that can probably be avoided if desired. The snow was unusual, and unstable with crampons given the weather cycles/winds/etc, making for slower then usual progress at times. We didn't break out the rope for these sketchy sections, but in hindsight should have. We camped at 12k on the ridge a few hundred feet from thumb rock, (windy at night despite being dug down and ridge walls), and summited to a gorgeous day.


jpsmyth - May 12, 2011 1:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2010

Green Butte Ridge

Conditions weren't the greatest but still a good climb. First time on Shasta since Sid and I climbed it in1987 via Bolum

Shane Rathbun

Shane Rathbun - Apr 14, 2011 3:31 am Date Climbed: Apr 9, 2011

Nice dayhike  Sucess!

Day hiked with Vitaliy from the Bunny Flat. 6 hours 45 minutes from the parking lot to 100 feet under the summit cone. Decided not to summit and descend due to 70 mph gusts from an incoming storm. With the wind chill was it estimated to be at least -27 on the summit, probably colder. We climbed the ridge in our parkas from 10k for the rest of the way up. Great day in the mountains!

Shane Rathbun

Shane Rathbun - Jan 12, 2011 6:24 pm Date Climbed: Dec 16, 2010

Fun climbing

Attempted to day hike with Patrick McKnight. Started skiing from Bunny Flat at 4:30 am and made it to about 11,500 on the ridge where Patrick decided he wasn't feeling well. Turned around from here. Fun mixed climbing, really wished I could have summited. He told me to go on without but not my style to leave a partner, especially when he is not feeling well and slopes are wind loaded/scoured. I live close to the mountain so I know I will be back to day hike this route.


rhyang - Dec 20, 2010 11:33 am

May 2009  Sucess!

Snowcamped near the top of Green Butte. Kind of a slog until reaching Sargents Ridge, which was a little melted out -- lots of rock scrambling in crampons and snow traversing, which took a while. Great scenery.

Descended Avy Gulch (whee !) after summitting and traversed back to Green Butte Ridge.


SKI - Jun 21, 2010 11:00 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010

Gateway to Sargents   Sucess!

Knocked this guy out in a day. Overcame a headwall, oddly enough, to gain the ridge above treeline. Took it all the way to Shastarama, then hopped on the Sargents Ridge Express straight to the thumb. Breakable crust and skis on the back made traverses a slowgoing nightmare. Overall 9 hours car to Thumb Rock to car. Even made time to see some friends camped at Helen.


PellucidWombat - Feb 18, 2010 2:45 am Date Climbed: Feb 15, 2010

Back for Revenge!  Sucess!

I made it to the Sargents/Green Butte junction in January, but low snow made the route too slow-going and technical to continue. This time we had better snow, but a low start (road closure was at 5,000 ft!) This made for a long day between the approach, trail breaking in soft snow from Bunny Flat, route finding difficulties through the cliffs, and my partner's 'tweaked' leg acting up near the end of the route and really slowing our descent. All in all it was 26 hrs car-to-car, 22.5 miles & 9,400' of gain done on 800 calories of food. Next time I'll bring more snacks for this route!

Even with full snow conditions, I found the traverse through the gendarmes far harder in terms of route finding, steepness, and hazards. Definitely my favorite route on the mountain so far!


cdog - Apr 20, 2009 10:12 pm Date Climbed: Apr 19, 2009

GBR-Sargents-summit  Sucess!

my buddy Chad and I climbed this route during incredibly calm, warm, spring conditions. We camped near Green Butte (~9500') and left for the summit around 2:15am. We encountered lots of fast-moving snow ridge on the lower portion, slowly progressing into exposed rock scrambling as the route merges with Sargents ridge. Some traversing around the upper pinnacles of the ridge tied us into Thumb Rock and the normal route. All in all a fun climb. I agree with the class 3 rating. There was some snow travel for short stretches on 50deg and longer stretches on 35deg. We topped out at 9:30am, which felt like an average ascent time.
The east side of lower GBR is open to snowmobiles, so don't expect too much solitude if you're in that neighborhood late morning-early evening on weekends.
As for descent, we opted not to deal with downclimbing the route and its rocks, which were frozen in the morning but likely not frozen in the late morning and afternoon. We descended the oven that is Avalanche Gulch and made a diagonal descending traverse from 10500' towards GBR at approx 10000'. This worked out well.


mdostby - Oct 27, 2008 10:30 pm

Green Butte Ridge

My first trip to Shasta was up Green Butte Ridge solo. Caught in stormy weather for two nights on the ridge.

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