What a great climb! The weather was beautiful, good rock and belay bolts.
Definitely going back one day to climb it again; maybe another route then.
First day: Luckner Haus (1950m) - Studlhutte (2801m) - Erzherzogg Johann Hut (3454m)
Second day: Erzh. Joh. Hut - summit of Grossglockner -Erzherzog Johann Hut - Studlhutte - LucknerHaus
We had strong winds and zero visibility on the first day. When we woke up in the hut on our summit day the weather didn't improve at all. The wind was strong but we still managed to get to the summit. Although visibility was low, it was a great feeling to be on 'top of Austria'.
After the unsuccessful attempt(due to too much snow, strong wind, one sick and one not enough experienced partners) from the previous day on Stuedlgrat, we decided to go on the normal route, hoping that our less experienced partner will be able to join us on this easier route. But still he had to turn back, so we got up little after 11 AM with a lot, I would say too many, people for beginning of October. But we had great views and clear blue skies. Berg Heil!
1st day we made approach from Luckner house via Studl hutte and Kodnitzkees glacier to Erzherzog Johan Hutte where we stayed over night. Next day on 26.06. we climbed to the summit. The weather was no so good...the ridge was covered with clouds so we could not see much from the top. After the summit we have descended all the way to Studl Hutte where we stayed for another night. On 27.06. we have returned to our cars. Great mountain & great climbing!
Climbed the Studlgrat while leading a youth NKBV-group up to the summit. Athmospheric and impressive.
Stuedlgrat - April 2011
Perfect weather, good conditions, some snow and ice on the west side of the ridge. Met few people on the route, no crowds in fact.
Pleasant climbing, summited in beautiful scenery around us.
Climbed with Igi.
Photo gallery - here.
Normal route from Kals - February 2011
Good weather (strong wind but good visilibity at last!). Good snow conditions, however at lower parts of the route we would've died for skies - snow was heavy...Overall - we managed and it was fun.
Climbed with Igi, Matti and Jacek 'Zjawa'.
Photo gallery from the trip - here
Normal route from Kals - January 2011
We managed to get to EJH huette. Retreat because of heavy conditions (zero visibility, strong wind and ... lack of time - no more waiting was possible).
Attempt undertaken with Igi.
Normal route via Hofmannskees - June 2009
Took the route from Franz-Josefs-Hoehe, down to Pasterze glacier and all along Hofmannkees, to finally get to Erzherzog-Johan-Hutte. Climbed to the summit the following day in snow conditions (suprisingly, the whole summit looked like in mid-winter, no solid and clear rock visible). Went down to Kals in nasty circumstances (my partner got snow-blind). But overall - great trip!
Climbed with Igi The Brave :)
We had perfect weather and there were very few people around - peerfect conditions for climb. Hope I'll try Pallavicini Rinne this year.
Short sleep in tent next to Studlhutte. Clear blue sky, sunny and windy in the morning. Amazing summit!
Beautiful climb to start the European adventure... Highest point in Austria
We went by Normal route, during the way on the glacier was storm and hailing but on the summit part from Erz.Johann Hütte we were luxury weather. Very nice.
First time 1st of May 2007- unsuccesfull attempt
Second time a few days ago;)) 26th of May 2009 with great company of my climbing friend Natalia and Radek(Brade).Beautiful mountain worth of coming back...
All my pictures can be found here:
So where are the pics?? :)
21st of may up to Stuedlhutte
22nd of may with snowshoes to Stuedlgrat (climbed it without the intention to go high, and without rope up untill the yellow bench).
23rd of may from Stuedlhutte in about 3 hours to the summit. We didn't pass Erzhog Johan, but chose to climb the gletsjer up intill it's highest point.
16th May from Lucknerhaus 1.918m to Stüdelhütte 2.802m
17th May Stüdelhütte - Großglockner 3.798m - Hoffmannskees - Franz-Josefs-Hoehe 2.369m.
1st try last year at about the same time. Made the trip "once around Glockner" (Oberwalderhut-Teufelskampkees-Luisenscharte-Adlersruhe), but had to go down from Adlersruhe at 12.15h because of very bad weather (fog).
This peak was my first "Dreitausender". First I reached its summit on the summer of 1993 in the company of one of my brothers, my father and a friend. We slept in the old Stüdl Hütte (that time the ugly new wasn't there yet:), and ascended from the normal route.
One year later I was there again with another team, but that time we had a storm after Adlersruhe, so we turned back.
I managed to reach the summit twice more (1997, 1999), each time on a one-day trip from Lucknerhaus, with different people. (My father and me became a sort of guides to this mountain for the citizens of our little town:)
Once we made it in heavy snowfall, but this was the only time when the summit ridge wasn't crowded and noone tried to step on our rope with crampoons. And just at the moment we reaced the top, the clouds opened for a while and we had a wanderful view to the Ködnitz valley.
via normal route
After climbing already many mountains in the Alps and also a few in the Andes and in the Caucasus, I finally managed to climb Grossglockner (3.798 m), the highest mountain in my home country, Austria. This is the mountain you can see in the background of my user profile picture since I am an SP-member... ;o)
I feel lucky, because it worked out in the first attempt! If you read this summit log or several trip reports, you will find out, that Grossglockner very often needs at least 2 to 3 attempts... (I know a lot of people where this applies, too. And as well for my girlfriend it was the 2nd attempt - she tried already once 14 years ago).
We had great conditions and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise during our summit ascent via Glocknerleitl (the steep glacier part before the rocky summit begins at the shoulder) and Kleinglockner after sleeping in the Erzherzog Johann hut. Less crowded than expected (because weather forecast was good and stable for the whole week).
Climbed via the normal route from Lucknerhutte and Johann Hutte. A great ascent, even though we were a little unlucky with the weather. The forecast was great (sun, no clouds), but actually the day was very foggy with visibility about 30 meters. The mountain was very crowded which is a pity. We planned the trip so we climb the mountain on Monday to avoid the crowds, but we did not realize that there was a national holiday in Austria.