Habicht was my first solo climb outside Scandinavia. I climbed the standard route and find it technicall quit easy but eather way a challenging climbing route for an quite unenperienced climber like me. The route has a lot of exposure and a fall at the wrong place will probably get you killed. There are fixed ropes at the most exposured parts of the mountain so make sure you use it. I used a safety harness with a Via Ferrata set and I think even the more experiended climbers should.
While my family was sleeping in the Innsbrucker Hütte, I woke up at 3:30am, started climbing at 4:00am, and was on the summit ridge just below the summit cross at 6:00am. They have a nice summit book and the views from the top are amazing.
The route was very easy to follow even in the pre-dawn darkness but it is not "a hike" by any means. You should wear a helmet and have a way to clip into the cables if you are at all uncomfortable on steep, rocky, exposed ledges. I didn't need/use the cables on the way up but I was a lot faster descending by clipping into the cables. This route is not just a hike on a trail... And I needed my trekking poles on the icy snow field for sure.
The sunrise was gorgeous. It had stormed a lot (lightning!) the evening before, so I was please to see nothing but stars when I woke up.
p.s. I climbed it before (2003) and it was just as wonderful as I remembered it. That time I hiked from Gschnitz and this time I came up from the Pinnisalm (which is a bit longer but prettier).
A day hike via the normal route (starting in Gschnitz by the church, the route from Feuerstein was closed).
It was rainy and foggy the whole day, no summit views at all. Navigation was easy, nevertheless. Descent was a bit tricky in some steeper parts due to slippery rock.
As the girly part of the pirinx team in the US, only the ugly did the trip.
6.5 hours, snow, great weather, Innsbrucker Huette closed
One day trip from Gschnitz.
Nice trip with great weather in autumn.
Stayed at the hut. Rain and snow the whole way on summit day. No views to speak of but was still a nice mountain hike.
Climbed the Habicht on Sep. 15/05. From Gschnitz via the Panoramapath to the Innsbrucker Hut ad then to the Habicht. On the same way back.
my steepest ice climb. Thanks to Klaus who lead the difficult pitches. It was an "old-style-trip". Sleeping in the hay at the Mischbachalm pasture was very special. Weather wasn't fine, so I have no good pictures
We left the valley floor and climbed easily and slowly up to the "hut" thinking that we would summit the Habicht the next morning (as most people do) but as it was only three o'clock, we pushed up to the summit and though it was late, the fact that it was the longest day of the year made an afternoon/evening summit bid an acceptable option. We climbed very slowly due to the fact that my partner was on his first climb ever! Shortly below the summit, we split up and I scrambled over the final ridge to the summit (cables make it "safe" but the route is tougher than most people describe it and can give one the feeling of vertigo if you are not used to big vertical drop-offs). We scrambled back down the ridge, across the "glacier", down the NE face, across to the steep ridge, down the main rock climbing portion (class I when dry) and over the rocks back to the hut in time for Käsepressknödel (a cheese dumpling). Our schedule looked something like this - From the car to the hut (slowly walking) took 2:40, from the hut to the summit took 3:00 and it took 2:40 to get back down to the hut (by which the Austrians seem to mean wonderful mountain hotel). Our times are slow but safe and anyone can repeat them or even go much faster. NOAH
* note - The 21st of June is the Solstice and the Tyrolians climb to their mountain passes and light fires to celebrate. Wonderfully pagan and unlike anything I have seen before!
Since the weather was announced to get worse the next day, we decided to ascent from Gschnitz in one day. The weather was excellent, we had an excellent view.
Actually, the weather turned out to stay acceptable until the next evening, so I was able to do the Ilmspitz ferrata the next morning
Perfect condition despite it being early in the summer season. The steep rock parts free of snow, the glacier / snow field well covered with soft snow. 3 h from the Hut.
The rock is rather rotten on this route, but you are quite alone. Descending the normal route to 'Innsbrucker Huette' recommended. See route description.
Note added: as of Summer 2004, the 'Glaetteferner'
is almost history.
Rain and snow, no sight, but a great experience. Ice climb, up to 55°. Thanks to the other team in front of us; without them we would have lost our way.