This route is short and by itself, but worth doing. Just left of the infamous Scary Poodles is a short left leaning wall with a tree atop. It has a left leaning crack. Make the off the deck exposed crux move to a stem and reach the well featured finger crack for your first piece. Ascend this crack as it opens to hands and eventually angle up and right on positive holds to the top. Medium to small gear belay. Scramble up and rap the feature to the east (Frank and Ernest). Dow
This route deserves a star in the guide compared to most any other single starred 5.8 in Jtree. It climbs better than it looks. Head up to the left side arête of the wall and climb up to and pull the small roof, a fun and interesting climb for the grade. Then up a hand crack to the top. Rap down Farewell. Dow
Climb the twin cracks to the left of Farewell’s twin crack start. Kind of the same thing, use both cracks to get started and then it becomes one. A better climb than Farewell. The crux is off the deck. After manipulating the twin cracks to get started, this route becomes a great hands and finger crack. Rap down Farewell. Dow
Tricky start/pro as I recall. Mantel up to decent ledges. Make use of the initial twin cracks to side pull and lay back up to good pro and mostly a hand crack from there. Had a decent couple meter finish as well. Standard rack, you can place a ton of gear on this one if you want. 70’ single rope fixed rap atop the route. The lower part of this wall is a bit chossy. Dow
Pull the large exposed roof to the left and up through a bolt to another roof. Clip the bolt on this one and make the crux balance lay back to move right over the third roof at the pin and bolt that are within a meter of each other. Finish up 5.10- face climbing to tie into Space Walk. Dow
All the routes on this big corner/roof are stellar at their respective grade. Same start as Astropoodle below the large roof but trend up and right on the right side arete. A single bolt protects the upper roof move then it is run out via side pulls and edge climbing to tie into the Space Walk hand crack. Dow
For the grade, this is an outstanding route at Jtree and deserves to be considered in the top tier. At the chimney on the left side of the chasm, stem up to start traversing the horizontal hand rail left into the “Z” hand crack above. Follow the top of the Z hand horizontal crack left and up to a fixed rap and ledge. Medium gear, single rope rap. Dow
This route is worth a recommendation in Miramontes guide but does not receive any (star). It climbs a cool finger ramp, left to right deep in the shaded recesses of the chasm to the right of the popular Head Over Heals. Interesting balance moves and intricate gear get you up the leaning crack and then easier ground to the top. There are two raps. I went to the top of this side of the formation and then scrambled down skiers right to the fixed rap serving A Farewell to Poodles. Single rope to the ground. Small gear. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:16 am
Poodle Jive- 45’-5.9*This route is short and by itself, but worth doing. Just left of the infamous Scary Poodles is a short left leaning wall with a tree atop. It has a left leaning crack. Make the off the deck exposed crux move to a stem and reach the well featured finger crack for your first piece. Ascend this crack as it opens to hands and eventually angle up and right on positive holds to the top. Medium to small gear belay. Scramble up and rap the feature to the east (Frank and Ernest). Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:13 am
The Old Man and the Poodle- 100’-5.8This route deserves a star in the guide compared to most any other single starred 5.8 in Jtree. It climbs better than it looks. Head up to the left side arête of the wall and climb up to and pull the small roof, a fun and interesting climb for the grade. Then up a hand crack to the top. Rap down Farewell. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:11 am
For Whom the Poodle Tolls- 120’-5.9*/Climb the twin cracks to the left of Farewell’s twin crack start. Kind of the same thing, use both cracks to get started and then it becomes one. A better climb than Farewell. The crux is off the deck. After manipulating the twin cracks to get started, this route becomes a great hands and finger crack. Rap down Farewell. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:11 am
A Farewell to Poodles- 120’-5.9Tricky start/pro as I recall. Mantel up to decent ledges. Make use of the initial twin cracks to side pull and lay back up to good pro and mostly a hand crack from there. Had a decent couple meter finish as well. Standard rack, you can place a ton of gear on this one if you want. 70’ single rope fixed rap atop the route. The lower part of this wall is a bit chossy. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:10 am
Astropoodle- 80’-5.10c**Pull the large exposed roof to the left and up through a bolt to another roof. Clip the bolt on this one and make the crux balance lay back to move right over the third roof at the pin and bolt that are within a meter of each other. Finish up 5.10- face climbing to tie into Space Walk. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:08 am
Mind Over Matter- 80’-5.10R*All the routes on this big corner/roof are stellar at their respective grade. Same start as Astropoodle below the large roof but trend up and right on the right side arete. A single bolt protects the upper roof move then it is run out via side pulls and edge climbing to tie into the Space Walk hand crack. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:07 am
Space Walk- 80’-5.8*For the grade, this is an outstanding route at Jtree and deserves to be considered in the top tier. At the chimney on the left side of the chasm, stem up to start traversing the horizontal hand rail left into the “Z” hand crack above. Follow the top of the Z hand horizontal crack left and up to a fixed rap and ledge. Medium gear, single rope rap. Dow
Dow Williams - May 25, 2018 10:06 am
Mind Over Splatter- 90’-5.10aThis route is worth a recommendation in Miramontes guide but does not receive any (star). It climbs a cool finger ramp, left to right deep in the shaded recesses of the chasm to the right of the popular Head Over Heals. Interesting balance moves and intricate gear get you up the leaning crack and then easier ground to the top. There are two raps. I went to the top of this side of the formation and then scrambled down skiers right to the fixed rap serving A Farewell to Poodles. Single rope to the ground. Small gear. Dow