Hilgard and the rockier North...

Hilgard and the rockier North Hilgard (left) from the south. This face rises above Dutchman Lake, a remote lake somewhat reachable from the Papoose Creek trail. May, 2005.

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bakcast

bakcast - Jun 9, 2005 10:11 am - Voted 10/10

Fantastic!

Can't wait to get up there this summer!

b.

b. - Jun 9, 2005 10:30 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Fantastic!

Your heading up from Dutchman? I remember you mentioning that. I would love to see the profile of this monster from there.

bakcast

bakcast - Jun 9, 2005 12:51 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Fantastic!

We would like to. According to FWP Dutchman is full of big Rainbows. My only question would be how best to approach the climb from Dutchman Lake. It sounds like portions of the S ridge are impassable? Where would we need to hit the S.ridge in order to get to the SE gully and miss the impassble terrain you mention in the route overview?



The other option is to climb N. Hilgard first from the north and then traverse to the south. I can climb 5.7 but can't lead it.....yet.

b.

b. - Jun 9, 2005 2:09 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Fantastic!

Yeah, that side of the mountain looks like a bear. We went up the wrong gully, climbed some 5th class rock in crampons, then had to do some sketchy descending with slung horns for hand holds to get over to the right route. And some of these moves were easier for the first person due to snow. If you can somehow hit the notch just south of the summit, then you could get there. Snow would probably be your saviour on such a route. Or the north ridge, but I don't know about that. If you go from Dutchman, you may have to pioneer a route (even if it has been done, it's hard to get any beta). But getting to Dutchman Lake doesn't look easy either, lots of whacking the bush.

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