Hoka Hey! - 5.9, 410 m (9 pitches) Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Aug 19, 2019 3:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2019

Hoka Hey, 5.8+  Sucess!

This route is graded 5.8+ on Tabvar and I concur. I have been up this treed gully on approach to climb several 5.10's to the right quite a few years ago. Hoka follows the obvious right facing corner up and left. Most would be comfortable soloing the first pitch, mostly 4th class, up to a ledge. The second pitch is short, up a ramp on the left that leads to the base of the corner to a semi hanging belay. Ring bolt raps all over the place as well as tons of bolts. We were skipping them. The corner divides up well into two pitches with a comfortable fixed rap belay in between, out left. At the top of the 2nd corner pitch is a large ledge. Traverse to the left and continue up easy ground above to the top of the wall. We mostly simul climbed this upper section. The approach and walk off were straight forward. The walk off meanders climber's left via cairns (2019) that lead to a small grassy drainage that leads to the main rocky drainage that you crossed on approach. Turn left and hike a game trail on the left side of the main drainage to intersect the approach trail. We made the route well under 6 hours car to car.

Old School WB

Old School WB - Oct 29, 2016 3:03 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2016

Awesome day out!  Sucess!

Long, sustained and challenging rock route, at least for Laurie and I. We enjoyed the variety and interesting climbing on this recent route on the South West Face of Mt. Cory. This new route is adjacent to the famous climb Cory Crack and has a relatively short approach (about one hour) through pleasant forest and meadows. Long route, 9 pitches, most at 50 or 55 metres in length, with a lot variety of climbing. Great views north to Castle and the Lake Louise peaks. First ascent by the “Banff Climbers Club” in 2014. Hoka Hey means “let’s go” in the Lakȟóta Sioux language. It was often combined with the phrase “it’s a good day to die” as part of a war cry shouted while riding into battle; we both felt like we had been to battle after swapping leads on this route. In my view, a competent 5.8 to 5.9 lead climber will find this route a serious challenge.

The description does say regarding the third pitch, “Some climbers will feel this pitch deserves the 5.9 grade but if you are familiar with limestone stemming corners it is 5.8, albeit every single move is that hard.” This pitch is rated at 5.8+, IMHO is at least 5.9, but I am less familiar with limestone stemming corners. Be prepared for a full 55 metres of nonstop and sustained 5.9 hard moves all the way up.

The next pitch, fourth pitch, is rated 5.8 and it is very solid 5.8. Pitches 7 and 8, are both rated at 5.8, again, IMHO, there are several very difficult moves in each pitch, and should be rated higher than 5.8, likely 5.9. The eighth pitch is lightly bolted and described as “mixed” using both bolts and trad placements. The bolts are in the perfect locations, with cams providing easy and ample protection in between the bolts.

Overall this route packs a big punch, but if you are interested in some old school sustained climbing at the 5.8 to 5.9 level, but nicely protected by bolts; I would recommend this route.

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