Honeycomb Chimney, 5.9

7th Pitch- 100’- 5.9/ By far the best as well as crux pitch of the route and I cannot imagine anything on Community Pillar next door to rival it. A “spectacular” (as Handren describes it and I concur) steep corner pitch with a slick black varnished wall coming in from the left into another wall with some large features higher up. At first the crack is wide and looks hard to protect, but in reality, you can sink two #4’s in as you work your way up to the 2nd half of the corner and into the more challenging climbing. The gear keeps getting smaller down to #.4. Use a combination of chimney and lie back technique to wrestle your way to the final reachy face moves which land you on top of a huge ledge. Belay with any variation of gear into a solid crack above.
Honeycomb Chimney, 5.9, 8 Pitches, Magic Mountain, Red Rocks, May, 2008


No comments posted yet.