Thanks for this highly interesting article. You covered all the bases and did so extraordinarily well. 10/10. Though I do have a question: You say that Refugio Berlin was jammed with gear and unavailable to fatigued climbers. Was it rented out by some other expedition, and if not are there upper mountain park service rangers patrolling to levy fines on those who abuse the rules?
Hello great post!
Planning a solo unsupported no mules Aconcagua attempt for this winter, no previous acclimatization.
Would you say carrying all the gear at once possible with 20 days food, or would you do multiple carries with a smaller bag even in the approach to base camp?
I guess everything is possible depending on fitness level and gear. I would hate to double carry the approach, so I would definitely try to do it in one shot.
Regarding your question about carrying gear for 20 days on the mountain to the base camp :
Having done the Regular Route approach twice and the South Face once:
The approach is many miles (more than 15) over pretty rough terrain from fairly low elevation to almost 14,000'. I cannot imagine anyone carrying +- 80-100 pounds over the distance. The approach takes two days. So doing it twice would eat at least 5 days of your trip, two up, one down and again, two up.
Much better use of the time would be aclimatization on day trips from the base camp up.
Why not just hire a mule for one load and you carry the rest by yourself?
Once you spend all the money flying there, the cost of one mule's carry is very small and the time is much better spend on the mountain.
I did not plan or need to charge as I had my phone and InReach off most of the time and had enough spare batteries for my other electronics. You can purchase charge time at base camp from any outfitter if you do not care about the unsupported part.
I did not have a radio since I did not know it was useful on the mountain, but both options are valid.
...and I couldn't imagine taking it on such an expedition. How were you able to cook inside the Solitaire? Even near the entrance I can't sit up without my neck and back nearly doubled over. For reference, I'm 5'11'', slight build. I have the newest model, maybe the older one was a little bigger? Either way, much respect for making this tent work on such a trip. I took it on some pretty tame overnight climbs in Guatemala and is was a bit of a disaster.
JoelSkok - Jan 9, 2019 6:02 am - Voted 10/10
Well thought out and written!Thanks for this highly interesting article. You covered all the bases and did so extraordinarily well. 10/10. Though I do have a question: You say that Refugio Berlin was jammed with gear and unavailable to fatigued climbers. Was it rented out by some other expedition, and if not are there upper mountain park service rangers patrolling to levy fines on those who abuse the rules?
nixoriugis - Jan 13, 2019 5:35 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Well thought out and written!Actually, I wrote that Berlin was empty. It is pretty much first come first served there. I did not see any ranger that high.
Carlocarlini1 - Jun 5, 2019 8:33 am - Voted 10/10
Load carryHello great post!
Planning a solo unsupported no mules Aconcagua attempt for this winter, no previous acclimatization.
Would you say carrying all the gear at once possible with 20 days food, or would you do multiple carries with a smaller bag even in the approach to base camp?
nixoriugis - Jun 6, 2019 7:42 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Load carryI guess everything is possible depending on fitness level and gear. I would hate to double carry the approach, so I would definitely try to do it in one shot.
asmrz - Jun 6, 2019 11:35 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Load carryRegarding your question about carrying gear for 20 days on the mountain to the base camp :
Having done the Regular Route approach twice and the South Face once:
The approach is many miles (more than 15) over pretty rough terrain from fairly low elevation to almost 14,000'. I cannot imagine anyone carrying +- 80-100 pounds over the distance. The approach takes two days. So doing it twice would eat at least 5 days of your trip, two up, one down and again, two up.
Much better use of the time would be aclimatization on day trips from the base camp up.
Why not just hire a mule for one load and you carry the rest by yourself?
Once you spend all the money flying there, the cost of one mule's carry is very small and the time is much better spend on the mountain.
Carlocarlini1 - Nov 7, 2019 8:05 pm - Voted 10/10
Charging electronics and radioHello how did you charge electronics?
Did you use a radio from abroad or did you purchase it in Argentina?
nixoriugis - Nov 9, 2019 10:47 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Charging electronics and radioI did not plan or need to charge as I had my phone and InReach off most of the time and had enough spare batteries for my other electronics. You can purchase charge time at base camp from any outfitter if you do not care about the unsupported part.
I did not have a radio since I did not know it was useful on the mountain, but both options are valid.
AlbertAnderson - Jul 30, 2021 7:41 am - Hasn't voted
I have the same tent as you used......and I couldn't imagine taking it on such an expedition. How were you able to cook inside the Solitaire? Even near the entrance I can't sit up without my neck and back nearly doubled over. For reference, I'm 5'11'', slight build. I have the newest model, maybe the older one was a little bigger? Either way, much respect for making this tent work on such a trip. I took it on some pretty tame overnight climbs in Guatemala and is was a bit of a disaster.
nixoriugis - Aug 12, 2021 5:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I have the same tent as you used...If I cook inside, I don't sit, I just lay on my side or stomach. I guess it's an acquired taste to live in a small tent like that.