Definitely one of the best climbs I've done... Incredible! This was the number one objective of our trip; after looking at the weather forecast, we decided to make this our first climb, instead of 'warming up' on something else first, to make sure we got it done. We decided to play it safe, and do it from East Creek bivy.
After our initial approach to the Kain Hut day 1, went to Applebee the next day, followed by going over to the bivy afterwards (almost got taken out going up the Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col by a VW bug-sized block that came rumbing down the gully- that would have ended the attempt, and my life, for that matter). Walked right by Honnold, Anker, and Ozturk (there for a N Face photo shoot) without even realizing it- ha ha.
Bill and I started up early the next day, with plenty of new friends- there were 3 parties behind us, not to mention maybe 2 or so ahead of us. Climb was amazing- fun, sustained, with great rock and phenomenal views. Summited 19.25. To facilitate efficient downward progress, we teamed up with the 3 parties to do a rap' train down S Howser (8 guys altogether). Bit of a sketchy glacier crossing, esp. as the 4 guys behind us were unroped, and even Bill poked a foot through a bridge at one point... Saw the Aurora Borealis on the way back- for the first time- sublime... Descent back to bivy long and involved- we were both extremely happy to roll back into camp (around 01.12).
What a formation, climb, and day! Thanks, Bill, for such a memorable time!
Swong leads with Bryan. Our first time in Bugs. 18 hours Applebee to Applebee. Passed 2 parties, one of which spent full 2.5 days on the route. Amazing sunset was witnessed after we finished the raps down the back side.
Climbed the South Howser Tower via the Becky/Chouinard route - great climb.