Huascarán Norte panorama from Garganta

What appears to be the summit here is only a false one. The broad ridge that extends to the left from there is actually rising, and true summit is on the far end of it. It only appears lower because it's further away. As you can see, the right hand side of this face is a maze of seracs, and there is clear evidence of a recent avalanche. Unless you like to gamble with your life, that's not an attractive place to be. I had climbed Huascarán Norte a month ago, this time I was back to climb Sur. Last time the skies were not this clear, so now I had a chance to look back and see what I had done. The normal route follows the south ridge, which is from left to right in this picture, and the main problem in 2011 was to get on that ridge. I didn't see a trail. At first I went up the big snow field in the center, but higher up a big crevasse was blocking my way. And it looked so easy from below. When I reached the crevasse, I turned left and followed it, descending in the process, until I finally found a way across on the far left in this picture. On the other side it was steep, but not insurmountable. It wasn't a walk in the park after that, but there were no serious technical difficulties anymore. 8 August 2011.