Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Oct 3, 2008
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Fall

Intro

Icarus is a nice 3-pitch climb on Tower One of Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon. The climbing is easy (5.6), but finishes with a spectacular exposed arete (same as Yellow Spur), making it a very memorable experience. Here are some pics showing Redgarden Wall and the Icarus route.
Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Ascent

We started with the West Chimney on Redgarden Wall (same as Swanson's Arete). Then we traversed climber's right towards the edge on Tower One, and finished directly along the spectacular arete.
Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008

Descent

We downclimbed the ledge on the northeast side of the summit to the rappel anchors there. After one rappel (standard length 50m rope), we continued to scramble around to the northeast until finding a spot where we could meet up with the standard trail back down to the west/southwest. This turned out to not be the most efficient route, but it sufficed.
Icarus (5.6) - Eldorado Canyon - Oct 3, 2008


Overall, this was a great outing. I highly recommend this route, especially for anyone who is relatively new to multi-pitch or lead climbing. There are some interesting gear placement and anchoring opportunities, and the final pitch is absolutely spectacular.

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