After two attempts (2005 & 2008) I finally made the summit with Ivan & Maximo, two argentinians friends.
Day 1 : Car (4400m) -> C1 (5000m)
Day 2 : C1 -> C2 (5700m, at the col between Inca chico & Incahuasi)
Day 3 : C2 -> summit (8,5 hrs) -> car -> Fiambala !
The first part of the summit day (until you reach the plateau) is a bit steep on loose rocks. No water until C2, had to carry 2 days of water supply. The summit cross has disapeared... as well as the Banco de Chile's summit box.
Camped at approx. 5400 metres on the north east side, made it past the false summit (6200 metres) and to approx. 6400 metres. Summit was in sight and approx. 1 km away but deep snow hindered progress. A great climb with great views.
Got little bit above Camp 1. We have decided to go back due to the really strong wind and lack of food to wait. Difficult to climb without a car, no water available until 5450m. Learned that hiking 20km through the desert wearing Scarpa Phantom is not the best idea...
Climbed during our 4PEAKS eXpedition 2006. BC at 4600m, next day leasurely climb to C1 at 5466m. Pretty rough night with lots of wind. Summit day. Windy but sunny climb and a suprise when we climbed to a small plateau and saw the real summit still some 300 more meters away. Nice climb and amazing area. Keep in mind that there is hardly any drinking water available
A clear start that progressively deteriorated. We wielded the big cross at the top as the clouds rolled in. The snow was falling when we returned to our tent and then the lightning started to bombard us (scary).
From Las Grutas we cycled 10km along the track towards Incahuasi and then walked straight at the mountain. Our first camp was at 4600m before the volcanitos. Our high camp was at 5400m on a little glacier on the way from the volcanitos to the col. On summit day we climbed up to the col and then up the ridge and descended back to our camp down a steep gully between the NE and N ridges. Storms everynight made this not such a fun climb.
Climbed via the Northeast Ridge. Scouting from Las Grutas, the Northwest Ridge seems a more obvious route, but nobody really seems to be climbing from that side anymore, as the pentitentes appear to have dried up entirely. Sandy water may or may not be available at a 5000m camp behind the Volcancitos. Water (or at least snow) will certainly be available at a 5700m camp at the Portesuelo. I got a little bit of snowfall on my high camp (5700m) the night before for good luck. I climbed up via the couloir on the left and down via the couloir on the right. The way up was quite steep and kinda junky (icy penitentes at the base, postholing further up... at 6am). The way down was steep, but quick, with lots of sandy scree below, a good descent route. I used crampons/piolet in the couloirs, but nowhere else. Never did find the Pirca up top, I suppose it just looks like all the other piles of rocks. Nice views on the summit, but extremely windy. Welcome to the Puna!!!
Incahuasi was part of the acclimation trip to Pissis w/ expedition "Puna Argentina 2008".
after 3 days at las Grutas, we did :
D1 - BC 4700 --> C1 5000
D2 - C1 5000 --> C2 5700 (too high step for me, woke up weak w/ high eye pressure)
D3 - C2 5700 --> 6100 @ 11 AM, in front of Incahuasi Chico. --> pickup @ 18h by Diego Sanchez from Andes Catamarca and down to Fiambala.
Great weather. Very few penitentes at 5700m. Strong to moderate winds everyday. Amazing views.
Because of extreme wind, we decided to go for the east side route. We got droppped at 5050m by Marcello Brandan (guide from Catamarca) with his 4x4. We then walked up to 5400m to build a nice platform and put the tent (GPS : 27° 1'23.65"S - 68°16'16.08"O)
Strong wind all night, we had to wait until daylight to start.
We gave up at 6000m at 11am, too late to summit and walk down.
Tatiana, Eduardo and I summited INCAHUASI on the 20th of february 2007.
High camp 5700m east saddle.
Straight up in east gully, lose rock when reaching summit plateau then easy walk-up heading north-west towards north rib, last hundred meters following north rib.
Many thanks to Tatiana and Eduardo, email@example.com
Griselda MORENO, Anibal MATURANO and I , Bruno BASCHUNG, climbed the north ridge of incahuasi. Base camp , drop off the car was at 4930m close to the pass going to Chile , a little bit higher than previous drop off with 4wd, high camp at 5805m. 6hr climb from high camp. Good weather, some snow.
5hr to reach the camp from the car.
GPS altitude on the top was 6642m.
I was there with Fernando Affentranger´s expe. I did not summit and had to stop at 6408m on the plateau. From this side of the volcano, we had some steep passages under the plateau (approx 200m).
We came from Las Grutas refugio.
First day : Las Grutas (4000m) - Camp 1 (5000m) between the volcancitos and Incahuasi.
Second day : Camp 1 - Camp 2 (5700m), at the col between Incahuasi and sub peak.
Third day : Summit day for Fernando, Andy and Robert. and going down to approx 4500m to meet the 4x4, then going back to las Grutas and finally to Fiambala...
I climbed the summit during the "Caminos en los Andes Expedition" with six friends from Argentina, France, Scotland and Switzerland. I arrived on the summit together with Fernando and Andy. Unfortunately I overlooked the Inca ruins that we passed.
Close to the summit we detected a weak sulfur odor. From the summit we had an unexpected deep view to the crater. The GPS showed an altitude of 6638m.
The main problem at Incahuasi is the absence of snow. The first snow we had to cross at 5800m. So carry enough water from your starting point.
Difficulties to choose route. Stopped by rockfalls and too steep, rotten rock below the first plateau. Changed route. Went to north ridge by a steep, but short snow climb. Easy access from this ridge. 1 hour over the plateau to summit. Very good weather.