Peak bagging loop with Bob including White Point Pinnacle, Dead Horse Pt, South Wilson, Wilson, First Creek Pk, Decision Pk, No Decision Pk, and Indecision Pk.
Saw a lot of bighorn ewes. After the tedious mini-boulder field, the route was well-cairned and easy to follow.
The first of two ascents a week apart. Up the boulder filled gully, then a series of ledges to the top. Nothing more than some class 3, mostly loose class 2 on the front end. Nice summit (there are two, so I climbed them both).
Came in from Lovell Canyon Road.Drove dirt road to dead end. Hiked up drainage to limestone ridge. Dropped down off of ridge a couple hundred feet and back up to Indecision Point,a limestone peak along the way. Dropping down another 200 ft before scrambling to the summit.
Did Black Magic. Great stuff.
Enjoyed the 2 wall climbing near the top. Missed a turn on the way down, but got back on course with only a minor delay
For a long time I have looked for a route,non tech,up the east side and on to the ridge. I finally broke through and got onto the ridge. I wasn't sure if it would go but it did. It connects with the east gully trail at the west end of the ridge.
This makes for a nice loop.
I placed a much needed canister at the peak.
Via the East Face Gully. This mountain was fun. I liked the route finding and scrambling. The weather was sunny and very windy on this day.
After the initial slog up the gully the climbing and route finding was fun and interesting. The route kind of weaves all over the place and there's one obstacle after another.
Standard BW route.
Again May 03/08. That sandstone-block gully is deadly.
Black Magic (early April 2008) Back after almost 6 years. Very nice route though Shirley got the fun pitches (odds!) - felt funner than balls!!
Lotta Balls (New Year's Eve 2002) My wife and I climbed this route on New Year's Eve. What a blast!! The great part about this route is that relative beginners can enjoy some 5.8 climbing high up since the crux is bolted. A great mix of face, crack, and dihedral climbing at mostly the 5.6 level. Did the route in 4 pitches (not 3) and got to swap leads near the top.
Can't wait to go back to Red Rocks!!!
E FACE GULLY WITH ED & BARRY
OTHER VISITS: 1/24/02, 2/10/02, 12/10/03, 3/15/06, 1/29/12, 3/27/13, 11/27/13, 9/25/16(bike/hike/climb from home 6 1/4 hrs), 2/9/18(bike/hike/climb 5 1/2 hrs), 2/12/19, 5/24/19, 12/9/19, 1/19/20
SE Ridge route 5/5/13
This is a very seldom climbed summit. I'm not sure why. I like to get up there at least once a year.
Climbed three single pitch routes to the right of Lotta Balls - Magic Mirror (5.5), Kindergarden Cop (5.7+) and the left crack on the face to the right of Magic Mirror (5.7?). Magic Mirror is rated 5.5 by Todd Swain, but my partner and I felt that its at least 5.7! The main portion of the climb is the ~100 ft dihedral with a crack. Its quite easy to climb the crack initially, but it gets off-width in the middle, and the faces of the diherdal are quite smooth here! We felt Magic Mirror was more strenuous than Kindergarden Cop (which is on the face to the left of Magic Mirror). Fun climbs all in all!
I followed a nice class 3 route up a series of gullies starting on the east face and ending at the top. Some nice ice formations not too far from the summit.
Kenn Kenega and I had to wait 2 hrs. in line at the base of this climb, so get there early. Good climb, bring 2 ropes for the rappel. ( a 60 meter rope may be long enough)
Fun solo on interesting rock.