Inti Watana, 5.10c

9th-10th Pitches- 180’- 5.9/ These combined pitches offer some of the best climbing on the route. WARNING: It is easy to get sucked into trying to pull the roof (loose rock) above out left by a singular low bolt, located left of the belay. The only purpose of this bolt would be for a bivy. It is hard to see the actual route bolt protecting the fun mantle up and right of the belay. Clip this bolt and make the “pull up” mantle move to gain relatively low angled ground above. Solid rope management will allow you to skip the next station and continue left up to a steep bolted face reminiscent of the 2nd pitch above the chimney pitches of Epinephrine. Rope drag could be an issue if you did not run your doubles appropriately. Sustained 5.9 edge climbing leads to yet another fixed hanging belay for the poor soul who drew odd pitches this day. I did not place any gear on any of these combined pitches. (photos)
Inti Watana, 5.10c, 12 Pitches, Aeolian Wall, Mount Wilson, Red Rocks, May, 2009

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arineod

arineod - Oct 25, 2016 6:08 pm - Hasn't voted

wrong way

Does this picture show the wrong way to go off of the belay?

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Oct 25, 2016 7:40 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: wrong way

that is the correct way. You can see a bolt in the foreground. That bolt could make some think they should go straight up.

arineod

arineod - Nov 4, 2016 2:36 pm - Hasn't voted

Confused.

Thank you for the quick reply!

The pictures says "It is hard to see the actual route bolt protecting the fun mantle up and right of the belay". But it looks like you were headed left? After looking at a different photo you included, I can see the proper direction. Thx!

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