|Activities:||Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling|
Long rocky ridgleline between Seahpo Peak and the summit ice plateau of Mt Shuksan. No easy approaches, and constant exposure and 3rd-4th class climbing with occasional snow and ice interludes make this a significant undertaking for any party.
Approach from either Seahpo Peak via Nooksack Cirque/ Icy Peak, or from Mt Shuksan via Crystal Glacier.
As per Beckey Guide Vol. 3:
From Seahpo Peak: Starting from Seahpo, descend slabs and gullies to a knob protruding from the snow (bivy site), then cross a small glacier; one should keep as high as possible here. Then traverse roughly 2 miles of rocky buttresses under various small summits (solid rock, Class 3); a slanting snow finger and steep rock scrambling lead to the upper Crystal Glacier. From Crystal Glacier: Reverse the Seahpo Peak route and exit via Nooksack Cirque.
As this is in the North Cascades National Park, you will need a camping permit, and a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trailhead. Parties are limited to a maximum of 6 people
Given the steepness of the rock, and the relative difficulty, length, and exposure of all the routes, it is only really feasible in mid-summer through early fall, before the first snows, and after the approach trails have melted out enough to approach quickly.
No spots for full on tent camping, but there's a few small bivy spots along the ridgeline.
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