Jazz Beat of the Nun's Groove, 5.10a

1st/2nd Pitches- 60m- 5.10a/ I combined these alternate direct pitches with a 70m rope (60m should work as well) and clipped nothing but fixed pro. Stealing this direct line from Broken Wing is the preferred method to complete this route in good form. Jazz Beat of the Nun’s Groove’s first two original pitches are 5.5 and 5.7. Broken Wing’s first two pitches are 5.10a and 5.9. Both pitches are fully bolted. Start just to the right of the starting pinnacle for Windy Slabs and East Street. Follow the bolts up solid and fun crimp edges to a flake/crack further up and continue past a fixed belay. Climb up a short wall and cross the ledge to continue up a tightly bolted slab face (the last two bolts will be the crux) to a much larger ledge and set up a gear belay in a groove down and right from the ring bolt belay for Broken Wing’s third belay. You can also use two old pitons lower on the ledge. Jazz Beat of the Nun's Groove, 5.10a, 7 Pitches, Direct Variation, West End, Yamnuska, Canmore, Alberta, September, 2010