I found the most difficult part of the climb to be a short section (~6 ft.) above the diagonal crack that takes cams (1-1.5"), which I believe is between bolts 2 and 3. Even with the gear, you are looking at a substantial fall onto the knob-studded face below if you don't make it to the next bolt hanger beyond the gear crack. I doubt this section would give a solid 5.8 slab climber much pause, but would likely be unsafe for a fledgling 5.7 leader in my opinion. You can also start this route directly below, or just right of the first bolt, though the difficulty then increases to 5.8-5.9 (better for the 2nd). Also, if continuing up to the Sea of Tranquility P1 anchor you may want to have a few cams (up to 2") onboard to protect the low 5th class climbing. Fun!
tahoe - Aug 31, 2009 7:25 pm - Hasn't voted
Crux above cams...I found the most difficult part of the climb to be a short section (~6 ft.) above the diagonal crack that takes cams (1-1.5"), which I believe is between bolts 2 and 3. Even with the gear, you are looking at a substantial fall onto the knob-studded face below if you don't make it to the next bolt hanger beyond the gear crack. I doubt this section would give a solid 5.8 slab climber much pause, but would likely be unsafe for a fledgling 5.7 leader in my opinion. You can also start this route directly below, or just right of the first bolt, though the difficulty then increases to 5.8-5.9 (better for the 2nd). Also, if continuing up to the Sea of Tranquility P1 anchor you may want to have a few cams (up to 2") onboard to protect the low 5th class climbing. Fun!