Kang Yatse is located in the Markha Valley, in the Ladakh region. The mountain features 2 summits, the western one at 6200m and the eastern one at 6400m. The main summit (eastern) is quite technical as the western is very easy and often climbed.
You must fly to Delhi, then to Leh in the Jammu Kashmir region. From there you can take many treks to access the mountain. Some take 2 days, others up to 10 days. The Markha valley trek is the usual way of getting there, as it provides a good aclimatization. It will take you some 5 days to access the base camp, located at 5100m. From North America expect a good 10 days before being at base-camp.
Day : 1
Leh to Shang Sumo (2½ hours)
We leave Leh by jeep to the starting point of the trek at Martselang (3600 m), the entry point into Hemis National Park. There you meet the crew and trek for 2 and ½ hours, before reaching the campsite in the tiny village of Shang Sumdo (3700m).
Day : 2
Shang Sumdo - Lartsa (6-7 hrs)
You begin the day climbing through the spectacular gorge of Shang, which is rife with magnificently hued rock formations that provide a dramatic evidence of the collision between the Indian and Tibetan plates. The trail crosses rivers several times before you reach the campsite (4600 m)
Day : 3
Lartsa – Base camp via Gongmaru La 5200 m
A steep 3-hour climb will lead you to Gongmaru La (5200 m), where there are jaw-dropping views of Kangyatse, the Zanskar and Karakoram Ranges . Then you make a descent toward the pasture of Nimaling, where the villagers of Marka Valley tend their sheep, goats and yaks during the summer. From Nimaling it is a steady climb up to Base Camp (5100 m).
Day : 4
Base camp – Summit – Base camp
The final push, beginning at 2 am , will be both physically and mentally challenging. But once atop the summit (6200m), the surrounding awe-inspiring scenery of Tibet , and the Zanskar and mighty Karakoram ranges, all of our numbing pains melt away in a warm glow of success!
Day : 5 & 6
Base Camp - Shang Sumdo – Martselang – Leh
You will spend these last two days retracing our footsteps, strolling casually downward while taking in the otherworldly beauty.
Typically you need a permit from the Indian gov to climb the peak. This can take up to 6 months and costs 300$ USD.
Camping is possible evrywhere in Ladakh!
www.escaladequebec.com - in the Albums / Travels / Ladakh 2007 section
To normal route goes up the north side of the mountain, on the western ridge. Go up the moraine as high as possible, then traverse the snow slope diagonally towards the top ridge. Then follow this ridge to the fore summit (6200m). Most people turn around at this point as the main summit is quite technical. If you wish to continue, traverse the knife-edge up to the main summit (6400m). You'll need quite a bit of rock and ice protection to get to the main summit. Expect anywhere between 7h to 12h from basecamp to basecamp. An early start (2h am) is mandatory as the snow gets quite soft when the sun comes out. If you wish to start later, you should climb to the advance base camp at about 5400m.