Kebnekaise Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 36

NurseMartin - Dec 1, 2021 10:09 am

First mountain  Sucess!

En heldag tur och retur, som alltid vädret kan ändras på sekunder. Mitt allra första berg, som blev starten på ett långt projekt.


rgg - Aug 11, 2018 3:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2018


Up by the western route, descent by the eastern route in 10 hours total. During the ascent I learned from several Swedish hikers that recent measurements had shown that so much ice from the Sydtoppen had melted this summer that the Nordtoppen is now higher. Standing on top of the Sydtoppen I looked at the Nordtoppen and the airy ridge, but I judged soloing it without the right gear far too dangerous.

In different conditions perhaps, but this time it was icy and there was a stiff breeze. As a result, even a small loss of balance during the crossing could easily be fatal. I had crampons and even brought an ice axe, but to solo this in these conditions I would want to be roped up and have a few ice screws and quickdraws. I guess I'll have to come back for the Nordtoppen someday. I'm thinking earlier in the season, when there is more snow on the ridge. Perhaps climb the Nordtoppen by the Halspasset route, then cross over to the Sydtoppen. Anybody interested?


Miken - Jun 22, 2017 6:40 am Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2016

East route  Sucess!

Started walking 14 pm and was on the top 00:00.

So 10 hours to the top and 6 hours down, wasn't in a great shape. great weather very good view, slippery and not alot of space on top so bring some crampons up there. the sun was going for sunset but was up again after 20 seconds :)

anttis - Jul 7, 2016 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2016

Halspasset  Sucess!

Started from Gaskkasjavri at 7PM, we had a windy but easy approach through glacier to Halspasset. Snow was good on Hals, used running belay. Climbing the rock-part was moderately difficult due to rotten snow and ice. Reached the Nordtoppen at migdnight, in a beautiful midnight sun, with no clouds obstructing the views!
On the ridge snow was quite slippery, crampons and ice axe were required. Temperature was in minus degrees (Celcius).
Descended through Östra and hiked down to Fjällstation just in time when breakfast started :)

AnttiOnDemand - Apr 9, 2016 3:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2001

Halspasset  Sucess!

Climbed both summits as part of a climbing course.


rockymountaindiva - Sep 12, 2014 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2014

Sydtoppen via Western route  Sucess!

Trekked from Abisko to Kebnekaise via the Kungsleden, with a small side trip to Nallo. Rented crampons from the gear shop at Kebnekaise Fjallstation, then headed up the western route the next morning. Weather was lovely at start, foggy as we ascended, visibility down to about 6 feet on the snowy part on top. Last section very slick, watched some folks without crampons turn around. The hubby made it too! It was brrrr cold though - the cairns on the section above the emergency huts were covered in ice! Easy route finding with the bright red paint splotches on rocks. 11.5 hrs round trip.


fubar7500 - Aug 29, 2014 4:26 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2014

Southern summit via West route  Sucess!

Nice trek from our tent-camp close to Kebnekasie Fjällstation.
Low visibility in the upper parts, nevertheless we enjoyed few minutes of round panorama on summit.


bergbacke - Jul 20, 2014 9:53 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2014

Western route  Sucess!

Hot as hell...

bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Jul 19, 2014 3:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2014

west route  Sucess!

I reached the summit at 1 am Under the midgnight sun. Wonderful trip up there, view is amazing. I spent later a few hours in the refuge at 1880m. It's quite advisable to climb in the night since less people do that and reaching the top is thus both more pleasant and you avoid waiting your turn to climb the last few meters.

The very last few meters need care in case of some ice up there.

Western route is long but always easy.

Bruno Baschung

Thomas Jäwert

Thomas Jäwert - Oct 26, 2013 9:41 am Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2010

Högalpinakursen   Sucess!

Climbed via Halspasset with Daniel and the rest of our group, started from Tarfala.


HenneB - Aug 16, 2012 8:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2012

Both summits  Sucess!

Fun climb up the eastern route (down the western) to Sweden's highest point. I was glad to see that northern peak (Nordtoppen (2097m)) was accessible again (it had been closed after the plane crash in between the Nordtoppen and the Sydtoppen (2117 m)). Quite impressive the amount of debris that was strewn over quite a large area. I wanted to reach the northern peak too, because apparently snow on the Sydtoppen is melting fast and that way I do not have to come back in a few years when it is all gone and the Nordtoppen is possibly the new highpoint....
A beautiful day, no wind, t-shirt on the summit, and a fun ascent over the glacier and then up the via ferrata


iemmi - Jun 26, 2012 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012

East Route  Sucess!

The idea was to go for Nygrens leden, however, there were alot of drifting snow, so went for the Eastern route instead. All the guided groups turned back, so we were the only idiots on top in complete white-out that day.

guhj - Oct 27, 2011 8:44 pm Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2010

Western route - late winter  Sucess!

2010 was a year with little snow.

After a week on nordic touring gear circling the area counterclockwise, we entered Ladtjovagge from Singi, and set up our tents in Ladtjovagge below Kitteldalen. Next morning, we left around 0900 on foot (uphill without skins didn't seem inviting, the snow was mostly firm, and higher up there was too much rock poking trhough).

Attempting to find the quickest route from Kitteldalen to the saddle between Tuolpagourni and Vierranvare we turned left quite early, and found ourselves high on a steep snow field on the north slope of Tuolpagourni. Rather scary, but we were able to kick steps and traverse out to bare rocks. Would have been less scary with 'pons and axes, but we didn't have any.

Lunch in Kaffedalen. Sandwiches.

Leaving Kaffedalen, I fumbled and dropped a glove. Thanks to good visibility, I could go down 100 m and get it while the others pushed on.

Summited after 8 hrs, in good conditions and good visibility. Summit shots were snapped, and there was much rejoicing.

Descent on foot via western route.

guhj - Oct 27, 2011 10:54 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2009

Eastern route -   Sucess!

My dad, having turned 59 recently, wanted to summit before he got too old and out of shape. So me, my father and my mother did a quick summit trip.

Walk in from Nikkaluokta, slept at the Fjällstation. Started around 0800, aiming to set up a "base camp" at the plateau before Björling's glacier. We got there at lunch and felt fit, so we continued across the glacier and up the via ferrata. Summited in low visibility. My dad almost quit 50 m below the summit, since "the view's not worth it", but eventually got up. Descent to base camp via eastern route. Back at the tent, my dad is shivering and quite exhausted, but an afternoon of rest sorted it out.

Slept at "basecamp", walked to Tarfala over Kebnetjåkkå.

guhj - Oct 27, 2011 10:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008

Eastern route - conscription  Sucess!

During my military service, we had about a week of "high mountain training", including summiting Kebnekaise. We went up the eastern route, clipped in with "crabclaws" along the via ferrata, and reached the summit in 100 m visibility, hail and snow.

Descent via western route.

guhj - Oct 27, 2011 10:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007

Western route - bad prep  Sucess!

First attempt was preceded by a night of whisky drinking and pushups. We turned back in Kitteldalen due to my partners not having brought their jackets along (shorts and t-shirts is too cold).

Tried again the next day, and everything went just fine. Decent clear weather, temperature slightly above freezing, some haze.

Descent same route. Don't remember time up and down, but start before 0800 and bring lunch and you'll most likely be fine.


Kicki - Oct 9, 2011 4:44 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2008

West route  Sucess!

The summit looked like a white shiny meringue!! The weather was amazing, sun and cloudfree. Best weather that season we were told.


JuliusKramer - Aug 29, 2011 9:40 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2011

Climb from Tarfala  Sucess!

Ascent from Tarfala over "Storglaciären" ("Great glacier"), then crossing "Björlings glaciär" and climbing the Via Ferrata up to the emergency cabin. Followed by a half hour walk to the Southern summit. The weather was a bit cloudy when we reached the summit but cleared after a few minutes. My second time on the summit.

Joerg Marretsch

Joerg Marretsch - Aug 22, 2011 4:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2011

Västra Leden  Sucess!

After an aborted attempt due to snowfall the day before we have succes on Aug. 13. A perfect day with some clouds. Starting at 06am at our tent spot near Kebnekaise Fjallstation we reach the summit at 12am. Perfect views to the surroundings. My first real mountain north of the arctic circle.


Lolli - Dec 17, 2010 10:37 am

It was summer  Sucess!

and the sun shone.

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