Khan Tengri Climber's Log

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runout - Dec 29, 2018 12:17 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2006

From north side  Sucess!

Summit day from the col.
Much safer than from south side.

Dinu - Nov 24, 2018 12:35 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2015

Romanian Team - northern rout  Sucess!

Greatness waits for those who try
None can teach you, it's all inside
Just climb


JuhoK - Aug 16, 2015 7:44 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2015

Southern route. Solo.  Sucess!

Season's first on the summit. A perfect day, nobody else above 6300m. Made the tracks and found the ropes. Totally my style! Second 7000er in a week.


hunterslee - Jan 10, 2014 7:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012

Close, but not quite

Beautiful mountain. Climbed the West Ridge, but opted to turn around @6850 meters. Will have to go back and finish the route one day...

kevin trieu

kevin trieu - Aug 20, 2013 12:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2013

Beautiful mountain, terrible weather.

Acclimatized on Lenin and planning to blast up the mountain in a week. Carried 10 days of food/fuel in preparation for bad weather which this mountain is known for. And as an old mountain adage, if you carry extra food/fuel, you'll use it. And so we did because out of those 10 days, there were only a couple of days of good weather in which we can move. Approached from the south side so moving between camps after snow was out of the question due to avalanche danger. Spent 3 days at each camp. Made the summit attempt on day 9 but was turned around at 6,400m due to horrendous winds and extreme cold. Should have brought my down suit.


Rusnborg - Jan 12, 2013 4:31 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2010

classic route from north side  Sucess!

Summited in august 2008 solo and august 2010 with client. Verygood weather, sunny, not wind, not snow. Beautiful mountain and good route.


zoomloco - Jul 7, 2011 11:32 am Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2003

Alpine style solo ascent  Sucess!

via Progrebetsky Route (Classical Southern Route). The most beautiful peak, keeps drawing your eyes to it. The 5.7/ 5.8 rock section at ~ 6900 meters is on marble making it very secure to solo and incredible climbing that may be unique (what other peaks have marble this high?).

Ski Mountaineer

Ski Mountaineer - Aug 29, 2010 7:35 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2010

south normal

Summit with Anders Ödman. Normal route from south (hazardous --> serac fall/avalanches from Pik Chapaev!), no fixed rope used for ascent, acclimatization for other climbs in area.


Jelena - Aug 2, 2008 3:04 am

Danger  Sucess!

Old fix rope broke. Almost fall to death. Very happy to summit.


alexclimb - Aug 29, 2006 7:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2006

Route Climbed: North  Sucess!

Did all the program in two weeks and been the last climbers from the North in the season. Quite hard route, but fixed ropes are everywhere, normally in very doubtful conditions. The Mountain is unbelievably beautiful (if visible). Started from the Camp III 6100 at 7.30 and been on the summit a bit
past midday and at 15.30 back in the Camp. Snow storm all the way, no summit views at all.


BigLee - Jan 26, 2006 7:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2005

Route Climbed: Progrebetsky Route, (Classical Southern Route)

Crap climbing conditions on the west ridge. After ascending deep powder snow and literally going nowhere at times we had to turn back at about 6850m late in the afternoon because of bad weather. We descended under nightfall. I had crampon problems and so descended slower than my partners on the fixed lines. Around midnight, amidst poor visibilty, I opted to halt on the ridge until the morning after losing the route. The night was freezing and by the morning my right hand was badly frostbitten and I had also lost sensation in my toes. Fortunately the weather and visibility improved around sunrise and I quickly found the route again and made it back to the col around 5am. We were hit by an avalanche off Chapayeva a few days earlier and the helicopter that was supposed to be flying us back to Kakara after the climb crashed (later making news around the world)! An eventful trip!
If I go back I'll either try the north side or the south side along with Pobeda. Not sure I want to take that avalanche prone classic southern route again though.


cristakhe - Aug 22, 2005 8:40 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2005

Route Climbed: north classical route Date Climbed: 13 august 2005  Sucess!

This is a very beautiful mountain that you realy need to see. In the summit day I have been angry because I think that 20 climbers in the same day on the route to the peak are to much. I have to wait more than 1 hour at 6700m to pass a 20m rock barrier. But once I have seen the view from the top I have forgetten all this problems.

alex schwarzkopf - Feb 1, 2004 11:14 am

Route Climbed: North Date Climbed: 10 August 2003  Sucess!

Great climb (as it is my only one)

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