My good friend and climbing partner (whom I will leave anonymous)
climbed the route the exact same day solo. He left me an email Friday night that detailed the route he was doing and when he expected to return. (he left from Colorado Springs Friday Night) I recieved a phone call from him at 9am Saturday morning from the summit detailing an exciting and easy lower fifth class climb up slightly mixed terrain. He was back in Colorado Springs by 5pm.
He went light and fast and was off the snow LONG before it was a problem. This can be a very fun and safe route if done in the right conditions. I leave this comment to show a contrast in two approaches to mountaineering: Light and fast Vs. heavy and slow. Sometimes faster is actually safer.
That was pretty much the point of my last paragraph. This is not so bad if you have the confidence to solo it. If you start at 2am and belay broadway and the first two pitches, the snow will be soft by the time you get to it and you'll have to bail or belay out the rest or risk sloughing off the mountain.
Light and fast in this case only applies to those willing to risk it all. This isn't Jardine lightweight backpacking. At our moderate ability levels and degree of physical illness, and with the conditions, exposure, and consequences of falling, soloing this route carried an unacceptably high possibility of death for us. Perhaps your friend had a much higher skill level and was not physically ill, and therefore had a lower chance of death. That's not my business.
One thing I've learned in climbing is to climb to your own standard. Once you try to climb by anyone else's standards you are lost. You MUST evaluate the situation only as it relates to you and your team, and others who might suffer the collateral consequences of your actions.
I'd rather climb for 20 hours than risk a ten percent chance of death. What is your ability level, confidence level, current physical condition, and acceptable probability of death? We all answer these questions, and the answers change over time. At that time, in those circumstances, I chose surviveable mini-epic over my calculated chance of death. I feel that is exactly why we made it back safely.
For us, faster was NOT safer. Faster is only safer so long as you stay within your abilities under the conditions. I have never caught a second's fall while simul-climbing and that's not something I wish to experience anytime soon. Attempting to move faster once we were already in the sh*t would have only exacerbating a tough situation.
If a mistake was made it was the choice of route in its current conditions. The choice of soloing vs roped climbing would have been a much greater mistake in my evaluation.
Hey Xyati, I think we saw your friend who solo'ed Kiener's that day. We were coming up the trough from black lake area that day, and right about where the ledges hits the trough, we ran into a guy coming down who claimed kiener's solo. Didn't ask much else info, so didn't get a name.
xyati - Jun 6, 2006 10:16 pm - Hasn't voted
wowMy good friend and climbing partner (whom I will leave anonymous)
climbed the route the exact same day solo. He left me an email Friday night that detailed the route he was doing and when he expected to return. (he left from Colorado Springs Friday Night) I recieved a phone call from him at 9am Saturday morning from the summit detailing an exciting and easy lower fifth class climb up slightly mixed terrain. He was back in Colorado Springs by 5pm.
He went light and fast and was off the snow LONG before it was a problem. This can be a very fun and safe route if done in the right conditions. I leave this comment to show a contrast in two approaches to mountaineering: Light and fast Vs. heavy and slow. Sometimes faster is actually safer.
I'm glad you guys made back safely!
edlins - Jun 6, 2006 11:42 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: wowThat was pretty much the point of my last paragraph. This is not so bad if you have the confidence to solo it. If you start at 2am and belay broadway and the first two pitches, the snow will be soft by the time you get to it and you'll have to bail or belay out the rest or risk sloughing off the mountain.
Light and fast in this case only applies to those willing to risk it all. This isn't Jardine lightweight backpacking. At our moderate ability levels and degree of physical illness, and with the conditions, exposure, and consequences of falling, soloing this route carried an unacceptably high possibility of death for us. Perhaps your friend had a much higher skill level and was not physically ill, and therefore had a lower chance of death. That's not my business.
One thing I've learned in climbing is to climb to your own standard. Once you try to climb by anyone else's standards you are lost. You MUST evaluate the situation only as it relates to you and your team, and others who might suffer the collateral consequences of your actions.
I'd rather climb for 20 hours than risk a ten percent chance of death. What is your ability level, confidence level, current physical condition, and acceptable probability of death? We all answer these questions, and the answers change over time. At that time, in those circumstances, I chose surviveable mini-epic over my calculated chance of death. I feel that is exactly why we made it back safely.
For us, faster was NOT safer. Faster is only safer so long as you stay within your abilities under the conditions. I have never caught a second's fall while simul-climbing and that's not something I wish to experience anytime soon. Attempting to move faster once we were already in the sh*t would have only exacerbating a tough situation.
If a mistake was made it was the choice of route in its current conditions. The choice of soloing vs roped climbing would have been a much greater mistake in my evaluation.
zenalpinist - Jul 8, 2006 9:45 am - Hasn't voted
Hey, I think we saw your friend...Hey Xyati, I think we saw your friend who solo'ed Kiener's that day. We were coming up the trough from black lake area that day, and right about where the ledges hits the trough, we ran into a guy coming down who claimed kiener's solo. Didn't ask much else info, so didn't get a name.