Kongur Expedition in August 2003 and project to climb it in 2004

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Trip Report
Kongur Shan/Kunlun/Xinjiang, China, Asia
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Aug 13, 2003
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Created On: Jan 4, 2004
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Kongur Peak is one of the highest mountains in China Pamir.

It is 7719 meters high and was climbed first by Chris Bonington team in 1982.
After that few expeditions tried to repeat Boningtons route or make new one, but

all of them were defeated. This summit is also very interesting

because of uncrowded area, comparing with Muztagh Ata, for example.

This year we examed new route from the North side which probably could

be the classic route on Kongur. Comparing with Bonington's route it is

much shorter, as it is going from the valley straight up to the Kongur

shoulder and than through the rock ridge to the summit. Bonington's

South Side route is longer and has a long traverse on the altitudes

around 7000 m.

Regarding this year attempt: we arrived in the BC too late, autumn was

starting already. We have made one acclimatization turn till 6000

meters and on the summit bid we reached ~ 7000 m. It was too cold to

continue on the summit day, so we decide to turn back.

Our route does not requires a lot of technical climbig till 7200 m., but after
it is a steep rock ridge, which requires some climbing skills.

Our team:

Valery Shamalo, Saint-Petersburg

Lidia Grauer - doctor, Saint-Petersburg

Kirirll Korabelnikov, Saint-Petersburg

Sergey Kofanov, Saint-Petersburg

Marc Vanpe, Grenoble

Alexei Gorbatenkov, Saint-Petersburg

Schedule 2003

13.08.03 towards late evening the base Camp, 3550m, was settled.

14.08. Climbed up to 4650 i.

15.08. up to 5420i.

16.08. up to 5960i.

17.08. Shamalo and Kofanov descended to the Base Camp (3550i), the three other
climbers descended to 4650i.

18.08. All team's members descended to the Base Camp.

20.08. climbed up to 4900i.

21.08. The rest forced by a sickness of one climber.

22.08 up to 5960i.

23.08. up to 6510i.

24.08. up to 6900i.

25.08. The attempt to ascend failed because of the bad weather and the insufficient
acclimatization. We had to return and descend to 5200m. It was windy, intensely
cold weather (about -35° C). We had the danger of frost-bites.

26.08 All team's members descended to the Base Camp.

27.08. In early morning we left the canyon for 4 hours. We arrived Kashgar that

The optimal period for the year 2004 is supposed from 5 /10 of July.

You can learn more about 2003 year expedition and the project for the year 2004
on the web site http://www.mountainguides.ru


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Kongur Expedition in August 2003 and project to climb it in 2004

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