I climbed the Koven Route on Mt Owen with JD Sacklin in July of 2012. We did it in a "day" meaning we brought no camping gear, although we spent almost 36 hours out. We started from the car at about 3 AM and were on top of Owen by about 5 PM. By the time we got back down to the Teton Glacier it was getting dark, and we ended up spending the night disoriented, exhausted and shivering as we made our way down the endless glacial moraine. We made it back to the car just as the sun was rising.
with Mike Sohasky
climbed an east ridge/koven combo w/steve on this thrilling, challenging and exhausting 17 hour day! we climbed to the teewinot-owen saddle and spent hours on end making our way through technical snow and rock(5.6/5.7) pitches on our way to owen's summit.
if that wasn't enough, we had a thrilling decent adventure of 11 rappels down the koven couloir and the ledges to its immediate west. at its terminus, we found ourselves on the teton glacier leaving us with only a long stroll back to camp, yet we were able to gather some much needed water en route.
the mountain hammered home the point that you're not in colorado anymore!
Amazing and challenging. The col and upper snowfield were steeper than I thought. Loved the chimney at the top! The descent seemed to last for ever. Really slow down climbing the Koven Col. Amazing views and well worth the effort.
During two weeks of bliss in the Tetons
Sean Neilson and I climbed this over three days in winter/spring conditions. On day one we trudged up to the Teton Glacier and set up camp. We started climbing with headlamps at 4:00 AM the next morning. About three hundred feet up the couloir in the steepest section, Sean fell and tumbled head over heels all the way to the bottom. He bruised a few ribs and broke his ankle. Not knowing the extent of his injuries, we continued to the summit anyway. The descent was treacherous, as the snow was soft and there were constant avalanches on the upper snowfield. I thought for sure we were going to get caught in a slide. The next day I carried the heaviest pack I've ever carried, as Sean could barely walk, let alone carry anything. We had an utterly miserable 5000 foot descent which ended with several hours of thrashing through avalanche-mangled forest. All in all, a memorable outing.
A detailed account is available here: