Soloed with Deb & Dave Daly. Easy relaxing day out. Hot & dusty descent though. Took a refreshing dip in Convict Lake.
Route Climbed: NE Gully
Date Climbed: August 6, 2005
Climbed on snow for the first 300 vertical feet of the route. Unfortunately, the 5.2 crux move was buried under 12+ feet of snow and missed it. So, instead, I picked my way up on class 4/low 5th cracks just to the left of the main gully to compensate for it. A decent scramble. I climbed with SCMA members Murray Z and Cathy R.
Fun, easy climb with 2 "cool dudes" even though it was a blazing warm day with a late start. 5th class sections were a blast and change in rock composition kept it interesting. North ridge descent bites ass but it's the quickest way down.
What a fun route! Even though there is a bit of loose rock throughout the route, the overall quality was quite excellent....and so was the company I was with: Miguel and Deb....great partners! No problems finding our way up this fun scramble. The crux: the "furnace" like heat on the descent back to the trailhead! :P Overall time car-to-car (including lunch at the summit and a swim in Lake Crowley): 7 hours 20 minutes. Would do it again!
Started the route at 4:30 am and reached the summit at 7. There were some fun sections. Alot of crap rock so beware if you have people climbing below you. the last 500 feet or so below the summit is a seemingly endless scree slog. Oh, and do not forget the mosquito repellent!
Nice climb on largely good rock, but got off route and lost a lot of time. Underestimated the pace of our progress. Partner got beaned in the leg by football-sized rockfall. Got as high as the band of red rock and decided to abort rather than risk being benighted without good bivy gear. Did several rappels and some downclimbing. Left a disappointingly large (and expensive) amount of gear on the route, but got back out before dark. Will plan better next time.
This route was really interesting. There was some nice rock on the bottom. Descent seemed to go forever.
Excellent day out with Mike Schasch (see his good description below). Part of a Memorial Day triple-header (w/ University and BearCreekSpire). Thanks Mike!
Got in early to Climb Bloody Mt on Sunday. Had some extra time so bagged this one. Went up trail to the Bloody-Laurel saddle then followed the ridgeline up (more or less) Huge pile of scree and talus!! No register/or box at summit
Up the N Ridge for a fun ride down the NE Gully
An excellent route. A great finish to a fantastic Sierra weekend with Rick K.
Perfect neve in gully, rock slabs covered with water ice. A little post holeing to summit ridge. With James Barnett.
This was a day trip from Las Vegas (6AM--midnight including drive time). I was the weak link of the group of 3 and was so slow ascending that we descended after reaching the ridge at 11,050 ft. (GPS reading) north of the peak.
A fun scramble. Did it in approach shoes 4.5hrs round trip. The highlight being tunneling under the snow. Good rock and views. I would recommend scree gaitors for the descent.
NE Gully sounds fun, but this was only a side-trip and I simply bagged it via the SW slope on my way down from Bloody Mtn. The slope is mostly loose and unpleasant crap.
Great route with pretty good rock. Awesome for training and trying to match Croft's 3 hour car to car time.
Soloed this at age 13.
An unusual and highly worthwhile scramble--part canyoneering, part climbing! We didn't use the rope, but one or two of the friction slabs higher up were steep enough that once I'd started up them I began to think that maybe I should at least have changed from my boots into my rock shoes...
Matthew and I climbed this as a warm-up for Clarence King on an absolutely beautiful fall day. We carried rope and gear but used none of it, climbing in our boots. Highly enjoyable scrambling.
I wanted to do this route as soon as I read Croft's description. In early season, it had snow much later than I expected. Then I broke my foot and had to take 7 weeks off. Last weekend, the weather looked awful, so I found something else to climb (Mt. Goode).
Today, it finally came together. I forgot my maps and route descriptions, so I had to wing it. I made a major screw-up on the approach, but the actual climb went very well: 2:15 from the beginning of the rock climbing to the summit. The upper several hundred feet of the gully looked like mostly loose scree. I followed a rib that looked a little more difficult on slightly better rock and ended up maybe 200 feet to the right of the summit. The variation was class 2 and 3, and I don't regret doing it.
Climbed with thall23, her first 5th class climb. Never roped up. We have another idiot climber with us.