A bit embarrassing to write that we did it via the East Side but we were expecting Class 3 slabs and so doing class 4 in boots just made it more exciting. Up over Gunsight notch to Lower Catherdral and then to the top of LT before continuing to Dewey Point above and then down to the Tunnel. With Bob, Adam, Bill, and Laura. A memorable and bushwhack filled adventure.
My first Aid route. Had a blast. Topped out in the dark on day two. Bivied on top where we were harassed all night by ring tail cats.
W/ Triche. Fri 7pm to Sun 1pm, climbed through both nights, naps on ledges. I led 3-4, 7, 8-9, & 10. This was my first "successful" big wall, but we climbed it in a pretty casual style. No sleeping bags, little food, plenty of water, puffy coats. So the hauling was super easy with only about 30lbs of stuff in the bag. The best moment of the climb was arriving at Ahwahnee after midnight and finding a cached handle of whiskey! That may have contributed to the push to nudge conversion ;)
thanks for the encouragement, Carolyn- stoked about it! Sure we'll be able to swap more stories soon!
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Way to go Dirk! (and Rob) Hmmmm, 2nd smallest cam blowing -- sounds familiar. ;^)
Did this one with Rob. After needing to bail after not having enough time on the S face of the Column the year before, we got an early start on this one. Got our loads to the base & fixed P1 Fri; 2nd night & we'd fixed to 2 pitches above Ahwahnee (i.e. up to P7); topped out 3rd night (19.30ish?), getting back to the car around 12.30 in the morn'. I led Ps 2 & 3 (combined), 6 (interesting 20' run-out 5.7 in the dark after a loooong day), & 8 & 9 (combined). Great climbing & experience, & awesome formation! Memorable things included the 'Prince Swing' from the belay at top of P6 back to Guano Ledge, a whipper when my 2nd-to-smallest cam blew right before the belay at the top of P3, & jugging up the rope to the top of P10 with 1,000' of air (& the entire route) right below me.
Soloed the West Face in 3-1/2 days during a winter storm.
topped out in just under 24 hours! First grade V, awesome exposure, a great welcome to big wall
Fun route, great exposure. Took a bit of a whip on pitch 7 or so - scary falling with that much air under your feet.
Almost did this in a day with John Reyher, even though we brought bivy gear. A fun casual outing. Love that instant exposure right off the bat. When we got back to the car we realized we left the driver's side window rolled all the way down. Oops.
did the w. face w/o using any fixed gear...which was very difficult considering all the junk. made it more challenging! had it to ourselves, but it was right after a storm.
This was my first big wall in The Valley. I was scared the whole way up!
Big air and big whip on P7. Got dragged along ... It was interesting to keep track of Tuan's night epic below. Fortunately we left them the ledge! http://www.terragalleria.com/scripts/dbsearch.php?row=4&col=5&s=1&d=tiny&t=allp1&q=leaning+tower&submit.x=0&submit.y=0
First wall, with Rene Stettler from Switzerland and Craig Jackson from Aus. Awesome time!!
First wall. A good time... kind of.
Fun easy route!!
With Chris Leger....we came down the Gun Sight (not recommended)
1994 West face
1996 Wet Denim Daydream
Started late with partner John Pfeiffer. Approach took a little longer than expected. Enjoyable climbing though. Vertical backpacking really. A Japanese solo climber, "Pancho" Sakomoto, bivied with us at Ahwanee Ledge and joined with us on day two. We finished the raps down the L.T. Chimney in the wee hours.
Climbed this route with Tim Winiarski and Roy Baker ( Roy's first big wall ). Was rated A4 then, and the pitch off Ahwahnee Ledge was hard ( Timmys lead ). Ran out of water too, just to add to the excitement!