bechtt - Jun 10, 2012 8:15 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012
East side
A bit embarrassing to write that we did it via the East Side but we were expecting Class 3 slabs and so doing class 4 in boots just made it more exciting. Up over Gunsight notch to Lower Catherdral and then to the top of LT before continuing to Dewey Point above and then down to the Tunnel. With Bob, Adam, Bill, and Laura. A memorable and bushwhack filled adventure.
jamesmc2 - Jul 26, 2010 12:20 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2005
First Aid Route
My first Aid route. Had a blast. Topped out in the dark on day two. Bivied on top where we were harassed all night by ring tail cats.
NeeDlzdos - Dec 7, 2008 1:06 am Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2008
Our West Face "push" was more of a nudge
W/ Triche. Fri 7pm to Sun 1pm, climbed through both nights, naps on ledges. I led 3-4, 7, 8-9, & 10. This was my first "successful" big wall, but we climbed it in a pretty casual style. No sleeping bags, little food, plenty of water, puffy coats. So the hauling was super easy with only about 30lbs of stuff in the bag. The best moment of the climb was arriving at Ahwahnee after midnight and finding a cached handle of whiskey! That may have contributed to the push to nudge conversion ;)
Diggler - Aug 26, 2008 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2008
First big wall success!!
Did this one with Rob. After needing to bail after not having enough time on the S face of the Column the year before, we got an early start on this one. Got our loads to the base & fixed P1 Fri; 2nd night & we'd fixed to 2 pitches above Ahwahnee (i.e. up to P7); topped out 3rd night (19.30ish?), getting back to the car around 12.30 in the morn'. I led Ps 2 & 3 (combined), 6 (interesting 20' run-out 5.7 in the dark after a loooong day), & 8 & 9 (combined). Great climbing & experience, & awesome formation! Memorable things included the 'Prince Swing' from the belay at top of P6 back to Guano Ledge, a whipper when my 2nd-to-smallest cam blew right before the belay at the top of P3, & jugging up the rope to the top of P10 with 1,000' of air (& the entire route) right below me.
Almost did this in a day with John Reyher, even though we brought bivy gear. A fun casual outing. Love that instant exposure right off the bat. When we got back to the car we realized we left the driver's side window rolled all the way down. Oops.
did the w. face w/o using any fixed gear...which was very difficult considering all the junk. made it more challenging! had it to ourselves, but it was right after a storm.
Big air and big whip on P7. Got dragged along ... It was interesting to keep track of Tuan's night epic below. Fortunately we left them the ledge! http://www.terragalleria.com/scripts/dbsearch.php?row=4&col=5&s=1&d=tiny&t=allp1&q=leaning+tower&submit.x=0&submit.y=0
Started late with partner John Pfeiffer. Approach took a little longer than expected. Enjoyable climbing though. Vertical backpacking really. A Japanese solo climber, "Pancho" Sakomoto, bivied with us at Ahwanee Ledge and joined with us on day two. We finished the raps down the L.T. Chimney in the wee hours.
Route Climbed: Wet Denim Daydream Date Climbed: 1983
Climbed this route with Tim Winiarski and Roy Baker ( Roy's first big wall ). Was rated A4 then, and the pitch off Ahwahnee Ledge was hard ( Timmys lead ). Ran out of water too, just to add to the excitement!
bechtt - Jun 10, 2012 8:15 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012
East sideA bit embarrassing to write that we did it via the East Side but we were expecting Class 3 slabs and so doing class 4 in boots just made it more exciting. Up over Gunsight notch to Lower Catherdral and then to the top of LT before continuing to Dewey Point above and then down to the Tunnel. With Bob, Adam, Bill, and Laura. A memorable and bushwhack filled adventure.
jamesmc2 - Jul 26, 2010 12:20 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2005
First Aid RouteMy first Aid route. Had a blast. Topped out in the dark on day two. Bivied on top where we were harassed all night by ring tail cats.
NeeDlzdos - Dec 7, 2008 1:06 am Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2008
Our West Face "push" was more of a nudgeW/ Triche. Fri 7pm to Sun 1pm, climbed through both nights, naps on ledges. I led 3-4, 7, 8-9, & 10. This was my first "successful" big wall, but we climbed it in a pretty casual style. No sleeping bags, little food, plenty of water, puffy coats. So the hauling was super easy with only about 30lbs of stuff in the bag. The best moment of the climb was arriving at Ahwahnee after midnight and finding a cached handle of whiskey! That may have contributed to the push to nudge conversion ;)
Diggler - Aug 26, 2008 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2008
First big wall success!!Did this one with Rob. After needing to bail after not having enough time on the S face of the Column the year before, we got an early start on this one. Got our loads to the base & fixed P1 Fri; 2nd night & we'd fixed to 2 pitches above Ahwahnee (i.e. up to P7); topped out 3rd night (19.30ish?), getting back to the car around 12.30 in the morn'. I led Ps 2 & 3 (combined), 6 (interesting 20' run-out 5.7 in the dark after a loooong day), & 8 & 9 (combined). Great climbing & experience, & awesome formation! Memorable things included the 'Prince Swing' from the belay at top of P6 back to Guano Ledge, a whipper when my 2nd-to-smallest cam blew right before the belay at the top of P3, & jugging up the rope to the top of P10 with 1,000' of air (& the entire route) right below me.
Dragger - Aug 26, 2008 4:20 pm
Re: First big wall success!!WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Way to go Dirk! (and Rob) Hmmmm, 2nd smallest cam blowing -- sounds familiar. ;^)
Diggler - Sep 4, 2008 6:26 pm
Re: First big wall success!!thanks for the encouragement, Carolyn- stoked about it! Sure we'll be able to swap more stories soon!
Sierra Ledge Rat - Jul 17, 2008 11:33 pm
1980: Winter solo W FaceSoloed the West Face in 3-1/2 days during a winter storm.
iceworm - Jul 11, 2008 1:55 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2008
West Face in a Daytopped out in just under 24 hours! First grade V, awesome exposure, a great welcome to big wall
benjohnson - Jun 12, 2008 12:06 pm
West Face fun - May 2008Fun route, great exposure. Took a bit of a whip on pitch 7 or so - scary falling with that much air under your feet.
fatdad - Jun 10, 2008 8:38 pm
West FaceAlmost did this in a day with John Reyher, even though we brought bivy gear. A fun casual outing. Love that instant exposure right off the bat. When we got back to the car we realized we left the driver's side window rolled all the way down. Oops.
highice - Feb 1, 2007 6:03 pm
west facedid the w. face w/o using any fixed gear...which was very difficult considering all the junk. made it more challenging! had it to ourselves, but it was right after a storm.
ElCapitanKoolAid - May 22, 2006 3:39 am
First wall: Holly shit!!This was my first big wall in The Valley. I was scared the whole way up!
old5ten - Jan 12, 2006 12:52 am
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 1994Big air and big whip on P7. Got dragged along ... It was interesting to keep track of Tuan's night epic below. Fortunately we left them the ledge! http://www.terragalleria.com/scripts/dbsearch.php?row=4&col=5&s=1&d=tiny&t=allp1&q=leaning+tower&submit.x=0&submit.y=0
salad - Aug 11, 2005 3:35 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 1997First wall, with Rene Stettler from Switzerland and Craig Jackson from Aus. Awesome time!!
cottersnow - Aug 4, 2005 4:48 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 6-12-05First wall. A good time... kind of.
bigwallt - Feb 21, 2005 11:53 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: Aug 2004Fun easy route!!
poorboy44 - Jul 23, 2004 9:02 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 1999With Chris Leger....we came down the Gun Sight (not recommended)
Rob - Jan 23, 2004 7:17 pm
Route Climbed: A couple, Date Climbed: 1990's1994 West face
1996 Wet Denim Daydream
Dave Dinnell - Jan 13, 2004 1:49 am
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: June 1997Started late with partner John Pfeiffer. Approach took a little longer than expected. Enjoyable climbing though. Vertical backpacking really. A Japanese solo climber, "Pancho" Sakomoto, bivied with us at Ahwanee Ledge and joined with us on day two. We finished the raps down the L.T. Chimney in the wee hours.
Craig Peer - Sep 15, 2003 12:31 pm
Route Climbed: Wet Denim Daydream Date Climbed: 1983Climbed this route with Tim Winiarski and Roy Baker ( Roy's first big wall ). Was rated A4 then, and the pitch off Ahwahnee Ledge was hard ( Timmys lead ). Ran out of water too, just to add to the excitement!