eeeheeheehee - Aug 28, 2022 9:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2022
hazardous yet exhilarating
I am not a rock climber, but I am a degenerate that takes risks on class 4 terrain because it's fun, possible with focus, and often leads me places that are otherwise inaccessible to plebs like myself.
Here is the route I took.
From the Mist Trail, take the traditional exit for Sierra Point. Those familiar with the Sierra Point trail will recall that there are two "sketch" sections: a white waterfall with exposure on the left and a grey series of steps with exposure on the right. These sections are close together. After the white waterfall, you walk northeast 100 feet and then take a switchback that leads you southwest to the grey stairs after 100 feet. After this switchback, walk 30 or so feet on the trail, and instead of walking to the grey steps, turn completely around and consider the ledge on your right. There is a use trail/desire path leading up it. Follow this trail and stay close to the wall on your right. Now we are moving up the Leconte Gully area.
This trail ends at a class 4 waterfall with a cairn at the bottom. Actually, this is omitting a lot, because on the way there, there's a sketch section with a 6 inch ledge with exposure on the left you have to walk past, and then you head up a ledge that seems like it will cliff out, only for it to end in a small 7 foot gully that ends at the base of the waterfall. But I digress.
We are at the waterfall. It is smooth but the holds are legion. There is exposure but it is not catastrophic. Still, a fall will result in many broken bones or death regardless. Alas. Climb the waterfall and be careful. Eventually you will get to a bench, and we are now at the crux of the entire gully. The gully you are in continues up perhaps 50 feet and then dead ends. To the right, we see a sketchy 3rd class continuation of the waterfall, although there is moss almost everywhere. I was too scared to continue up this because a fall would mean, probably, certain death. But, climb this perhaps 30 feet up and you enter a larger gully, the father of the one you are currently in. To the center, at the end of the current gully, there appears to be some possibility of climbing up 20 feet and attaining the larger gully, but this gave me bad vibes as well. To the left, we have a line of 4th class broken grey rock with much less moss than its rightward counterpart, and after about 25-30 feet of climbing, it looked like one could attain the center gully. At this point I should have admitted defeat and cautiously downclimbed the prior waterfall. But I was prideful and bored and scared and determined, so I attempted the left line. I made it, although there was a mistake made that made me quite uncomfortable. I would not want to climb it again without ropes or a partner. But I did, and kept climbing up.
Climbing up. Not quite true, since after this crux there was a use trail leading all the way to the col. STIFF 3rd class, but 3rd class to be sure. One must be comfortable hiking/climbing/walking up 50 degree slopes covered with the dangerous "Yosemite melange" duff consisting of loose granite, oak leaves, bay leaves, and dirt. A formidable foe, to be sure.
Finally I find the col and feel ebullient. I have cheated death, and will live to climb Grizzly Peak. The scariest gully I have hiked in Yosemite? Absolutely. I went on to have an exhausting day climbing Broderick and Liberty Cap before running down to Curry and wasting myself on a 6 pack of weak watermelon beer.
eeeheeheehee - Aug 28, 2022 9:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2022
hazardous yet exhilaratingI am not a rock climber, but I am a degenerate that takes risks on class 4 terrain because it's fun, possible with focus, and often leads me places that are otherwise inaccessible to plebs like myself.
Here is the route I took.
From the Mist Trail, take the traditional exit for Sierra Point. Those familiar with the Sierra Point trail will recall that there are two "sketch" sections: a white waterfall with exposure on the left and a grey series of steps with exposure on the right. These sections are close together. After the white waterfall, you walk northeast 100 feet and then take a switchback that leads you southwest to the grey stairs after 100 feet. After this switchback, walk 30 or so feet on the trail, and instead of walking to the grey steps, turn completely around and consider the ledge on your right. There is a use trail/desire path leading up it. Follow this trail and stay close to the wall on your right. Now we are moving up the Leconte Gully area.
This trail ends at a class 4 waterfall with a cairn at the bottom. Actually, this is omitting a lot, because on the way there, there's a sketch section with a 6 inch ledge with exposure on the left you have to walk past, and then you head up a ledge that seems like it will cliff out, only for it to end in a small 7 foot gully that ends at the base of the waterfall. But I digress.
We are at the waterfall. It is smooth but the holds are legion. There is exposure but it is not catastrophic. Still, a fall will result in many broken bones or death regardless. Alas. Climb the waterfall and be careful. Eventually you will get to a bench, and we are now at the crux of the entire gully. The gully you are in continues up perhaps 50 feet and then dead ends. To the right, we see a sketchy 3rd class continuation of the waterfall, although there is moss almost everywhere. I was too scared to continue up this because a fall would mean, probably, certain death. But, climb this perhaps 30 feet up and you enter a larger gully, the father of the one you are currently in. To the center, at the end of the current gully, there appears to be some possibility of climbing up 20 feet and attaining the larger gully, but this gave me bad vibes as well. To the left, we have a line of 4th class broken grey rock with much less moss than its rightward counterpart, and after about 25-30 feet of climbing, it looked like one could attain the center gully. At this point I should have admitted defeat and cautiously downclimbed the prior waterfall. But I was prideful and bored and scared and determined, so I attempted the left line. I made it, although there was a mistake made that made me quite uncomfortable. I would not want to climb it again without ropes or a partner. But I did, and kept climbing up.
Climbing up. Not quite true, since after this crux there was a use trail leading all the way to the col. STIFF 3rd class, but 3rd class to be sure. One must be comfortable hiking/climbing/walking up 50 degree slopes covered with the dangerous "Yosemite melange" duff consisting of loose granite, oak leaves, bay leaves, and dirt. A formidable foe, to be sure.
Finally I find the col and feel ebullient. I have cheated death, and will live to climb Grizzly Peak. The scariest gully I have hiked in Yosemite? Absolutely. I went on to have an exhausting day climbing Broderick and Liberty Cap before running down to Curry and wasting myself on a 6 pack of weak watermelon beer.
Good times!