Little Bear Peak Climber's Log

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TiogaBradford

TiogaBradford - Sep 23, 2006 12:32 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006

Hourglass  Sucess!

Fantastic climb - my first Class 4 peak......and I loved it! We started hiking the Lake Como road at 2:00am, reached the lake by 6:00am, and summitted around 9am. We were fortunate to be the first up the hourglass that day, which lessened the risk of rockfall. We only saw 3 other people on the mountain that day (with very good weather too!)

shanahan96

shanahan96 - Aug 11, 2006 2:21 am Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2006

three's a charm  Sucess!

March 15, 2013- winter summit with emily and jason via the southwest ridge. terrain got interesting just before the southern summit, and didn't relent. the ledges leading to the main summit are fantastic when covered in snow!

May 6, 2007- jamie and i climbed the hourglass today. it was alot steeper(55 degrees) than expected. perch made for an awesome snow climb on really hard snow....feet still hurt from kicking steps!

July 25, 2006- climbed the northwest face(hand route) in 1:59 from the como area high camp in preparation for the traverse to blanca. it wasn't super exposed like i expected, but it was nice to ascend another way than the hourglass.

jamie

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Jul 10, 2006 11:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006

West Ridge  Sucess!

What Brad said. Daytrip from the road.

Brad Snider

Brad Snider - Jul 9, 2006 1:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006

Standard Route in Rain  Sucess!

Kalet and I had this peak all to ourselves on a very rainy day. Started the traverse to Blanca, but couldn't see anything b/c of thick fog, and everything was dangerously wet from the incessant rain. Turned back, climbed back over LB and descended via the soaking wet hourglass.

jratk

jratk - Jun 13, 2006 3:41 am Date Climbed: May 25, 2006

nw face  Sucess!

4 wheeled for a while up the road, hiked in and did ellingwood and blanca. Great weather, set up a bivy and climbed little bear the next day via nw face. Fantastic 4th class climbing. Descended the hourglass, scary rockfall. All in all, best 14er to date.

F Bomb

F Bomb - May 30, 2006 3:53 pm Date Climbed: May 29, 2006

Hourglass Route  Sucess!

Good fun, the hourglass is everything it is hyped up to be. Start early. We had perfect weather and the summit all to ourselves.

miztflip

miztflip - May 29, 2006 9:17 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2006

Hourglass  Sucess!

Fun outing, I second the Gator Farm and for Pete's sake, don't bring you dog on this climb.

coloradoiceclimber

coloradoiceclimber - May 29, 2006 8:20 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2006

West Ridge (Hourglass)  Sucess!

Good Times! Be sure to stop by the Gator Farm and the UFO Observation Tower on the way out of the valley!

Kiefer

Kiefer - May 27, 2006 11:39 am Date Climbed: May 24, 2006

NW Ridge  Sucess!

The keyword for this mountain is route-finding! Had perfect weather though, mountain to myself. Ice in the hourglass in the AM and a veritable stream in the PM. BE CAREFUL! It is MUCH looser above the hourglass than what you might have read. If you take your time, this is actually an enjoyable climb.

shknbke

shknbke - May 17, 2006 5:56 am Date Climbed: May 13, 2006

via nw face, descent of hourglass  Sucess!

Easily the most difficult route on any mountain I have done, but I am not much of a rock climber. Very airy ridge indeed. I was testing the hand and footholds! We hoped to have a nice snow climb in the hourglass but the lack of snow made us go with the n.w. face.

TM

TM - Apr 10, 2006 5:43 am

up NW face down Hourglass  Sucess!

Seeing climbers heading up Hourglass we picked the NW face. Fun climbing, though pretty spicy for those not comfortable with big exposure and loose rock with some actual climbing moves. For those OK with the above, a fun time (though it wouldn't be fun to get stuck there in bad weather, to put it lightly). Very cool mountain and area, as we were hiking out 2 hour lightning/hail downpour was pretty epic. Almost as epic as the drive up!!

Mountain Jim

Mountain Jim - Mar 14, 2006 7:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 1969

From Blanca via the South ridge  Sucess!

We climbed Blanca first from Como Lake, then descended south into Blanca Basin and climbed up the South Ridge of Little Bear in a snow storm. Descended the Hourglass Couloir and worked our way back to Como Lake.

1mvertical

1mvertical - Nov 23, 2005 5:06 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Route Date Climbed: August 4, 2004  Sucess!

We were the only group on the mountain this day. The scramble up to the West Ridge was not too bad, except for the fact that we were a bit confused by what the obvious notch was. Once that was sorted out, it was pretty straighforward.



I would argue that the hourglass is in fact the best climbing on the route. Easy 4th class, just dangerous in terms of rock fall potential. The section above the hourglass seems much worse, especially if you get off route.



This would be awesome with late May/June snow.

jwproulx

jwproulx - Sep 6, 2005 7:14 pm

Route Climbed: Up W. Ridge/Hourglass, then to Blanca Date Climbed: 3 September 2005  Sucess!

I climbed this solo. The gully up to the the ridge was one of the worst scree slopes I've ever been on. The climbing in the hourglass was somewhat interesting but slippery, scary, and loose. Above the the hourglass it was even worse. The route-finding was very complicated, especially since I was alone. It took me 4:30 from Como Lake to the summit.



This climb was far more difficult that Capitol Peak, Pyramid Peak, or N. Maroon, and, I think, less aesthetic in both the scenery and the climbing. The West "Ridge" route is a snow route, not a rock route. Climb it in May, not September.



If you choose to climb this route in the summer, BRING A HARNESS, a sling, and a 'biner (or ascenders) so that you can self-belay the section with with a fixed line.

bc44caesar

bc44caesar - Aug 29, 2005 10:58 am

Route Climbed: Northwest Face Date Climbed: 28 Aug 2005  Sucess!

Began from a camp below the face. I chose to climb the inital wall to the right of the two distinct black water marks. I think I chose a poor route initially because I found myself in some very exposed and difficult climbing. Once above this I continued more or less straight up towards the first prominant notch below Little Bear's summit. There was plenty of loose rock around, but it is avoidable. Test every hold! Roach's guide mentions that the most difficult and exposed climbing is right below the ridge, however I would say most of the climbing is pretty consistent. The route alternates between hiking up steep and loose boulder fields and 4th class slabs. The final climb along the ridge is airy and exciting.



I reached the summit after about 1hr 40min from my camp and decided to traverse over to South Little Bear. I stayed on the ridge for a short while and then decided to drop down on the west side and traverse across boulder fields until the final scramble to the summit. The views of Blanca and the Blanca traverse were great. On the way back I decided to stay directly on the ridge which involved a lot of 3rd/4th class scrambling. The ridge isn't very well traveled and quite loose. On one steep 4th class downclimb I nearly pulled out a big screen TV sized block on top of me!



Rather than going all the way back to the summit I intersected the West Ridge route above the hourglass. Three fellows from NE/KS were deciding to turn around so I went with them to avoid being in the hourglass with them above me. That was a good idea because they knocked rocks down with every step. Once we were below I raced back to camp, packed up my stuff and headed back to my car.

doumall

doumall - Aug 8, 2005 1:39 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge/Hourglass Date Climbed: August 7th, 2005  Sucess!

Fear factor trump card for Colorado's 14ers. Water running down hourglass required class 5 moves to avoid. Tons of fun. 50th 14er!

mconnell - Jul 23, 2005 9:09 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: May 2004  Sucess!

Moderate snow climb at this time of year, with no sign of any rockfall except one rock on the traverse below the hourglass. If you want to climb L.B. when it's relatively safe and easy, do it when there is good snow cover.

umbra alta

umbra alta - Jun 22, 2005 2:31 pm

Route Climbed: Hourglass/Bowling Alley Date Climbed: August 2003

Climbed the Hourglass on the way to the Little Bear/Blaca/Ellingwood Point traverse. 4th classed the left side of the hourglass to avoid some water. We stayed on the ridge crest between Blanca and Ellingwood as well as descending Ellingwood's south ridge for zero relief from exposure all day. I would definitely recommend this variation to anyone as long as the weather and your stamina is holding. Took a rope but didn't need/couldn't use it.

hhsilleck

hhsilleck - Jun 2, 2005 1:20 am

Route Climbed: West Ridge / Hourglass Date Climbed: May 28, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed up perfect snow with my fiancee Sonya (ColoradoSonya). A little ice in the crux in the hourglass - we carried a rope and a couple of pickets and lowered Sonya through the crux on the way down. No rockfall at all - if safety is your priority, consider a late spring ascent.

Mish

Mish - Sep 15, 2004 4:09 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 25, 2004  Sucess!

Maybe the most harzardous of any of the 14ers, especially with verglas in the Hourglass. Although dangerous, it was a very fun climb overall.

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