I think doing this as a snow climb is the best and safest way to do it if you've got the game
Late June 2010 - Wasn't too fond of the hourglass. I felt secure climbing up/down it, but twice kicked off rocks that would've scared the hell out of anyone if they were below me. Usually I don't do that, but water was running down the middle of the hourglass, so I stuck to a higher and looser path.
Fun Peak! The rock in the Hourglass at that time was wet and polished smooth so I climbed some 4/low 5 rock on the left hand side of the gully. Going up was not bad but coming back down was a little scarier. Overall an awesome mountain!
Ropes were recently cut. So, no ropes in the hourglass. Ascent was wet, with storms hammering the area for the last couple days. Ridge to Blanca was dry. Turned back 1/4 into the ridge by marauding thunderstorms. Two joined 60m ropes made a perfect, quick rap out of the hourglass.
Bad conditions with ice in the hourglass, but Leah and I powered through.
Poor hand and footholds in the hourglass gives this one the distinction of the scariest 14er I've done (37 so far, including Capitol). Hope it stays that way.
The hourglass is awesome. I was the only person on the peak, but there were still rocks shooting down the hourglass. Definitely make sure to bring your helmet. One of my favorite hikes.
Overall a great day, but all the climb we could handle! Lots of class 4/low 5 climbing, add in some water...priceless! Hourglass is a handful. Descent was nothing short of miserable. (G-D that road!!!!) Sounds like if I ever go back it will be on the snow...Glad it's off the list.
this was a fun climb and not a very fun down-climb after a few hours of sun
Definitely more than 4th class the way I went -- probably too far to the right. Trip report
Fellow SP'er, Patrick Vall, and I attempted LB via the infamous hourglass route. Being late May there was a good bit of snow in the hourglass that makes this route much easier than summer climbing months. Good consolidated snow combined with monster boot steps to the summit made for #40 "on the list."
Met a new friend in Clay, we started up at 7:19AM from our parking spot 3.5 miles up from the TH and reached the summit at 1:06PM via the "hourglass" route. Clear skies all day long, Clay went up to Ellingwood Pt. as I returned back to my truck at 6:35PM. My 46th 14'er.........sweet!
Had to climb something on 09-09-09. After 47 other 14ers, I was finally ready for Little Bear. Standard "hourglass" route was still quite hard enough for both me and my climbing partner. We were the only people to summit that day, but an amazing 24 other entries were in the register just since the first of the month. Just as dangerous as it's made out to be.
Started hiking up Lake Como road from ~8,500 ft, climbed Little Bear via standard route (West Ridge/Hourglass) and returned the same way. 10 hours total. Hourglass/rockfall was not bad: had only four other people on the summit/heading up. Perfect day, awesome views from the summit.
Stunning 4th class route up the north face, leading up to the traverse. Highly highly recommended.
No problems heading up the hourglass. Beautiful spot on top. Went up Blanca and Ellingwood after.
Slept above Lake Como, right at the turn-off from the trail towards Blanca/Elingwood. Hourglass did not seem so bad, just loose rocks could be really dangerous, but I was the first one to summit that cold am.
I think this is my favorite 14er ascent to date. The snow was continuous all the way to the top and in prime condition.
Did this a few years back in February. Despite some post holing it was great. No one else around, in tee shirts (which became jackets very quickly when we stopped) as we approached the summit in perfect winter conditions.
Hourglass is sketch. The traverse is stunning.