Kane - Jul 15, 2004 10:32 am - Voted 10/10
Jim..What's the big one to the right of Gold Dust? Eagle?
Colonelpyat - Jul 15, 2004 2:38 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Jim..The big one on the right is UN 13346. I'd been eyeballing that one on the map for a while but never had a real look at it until now. Eagle is the flat top mountain to the left of Gold Dust and Fools is left of Eagle.
Mountain Jim - May 8, 2006 3:34 am - Hasn't voted
UN 13,346The Ormes Guide to Colorado Mountains gives it the unofficial name of "Finnegan Peak." We did what was most likely the 1st ascent of the East Face on August 6, 1982. It was a very interesting climb that looked very difficult on the approach, but ended up going 3rd class up a very steep, exposed face. We felt a little foolish carrying enough technical gear to do The Diamond.
Colonelpyat - May 27, 2006 5:43 am - Hasn't voted
Re: UN 13,346Thanks for that info Jim. I kind of like the name given in older editions of the Ormes book. (In fact I like everything about those editions better.) Gerry Roach happens to call this peak "North Gold Dust" and the hardened peak baggers seem to leave it at UN 13,346. I was calling it "that big 13er over near New York Lake" for a while.
I know what you mean about that east face. I've had good looks at it from a few of the peaks around there and it looks more like the diamond than class three. I've been wanting to climb it from that direction for a while now. Glad to know I can lighten the load as there's sure to be some nasty bushwhacking involved.
Mountain Jim - May 29, 2006 12:43 am - Hasn't voted
Re: UN 13,346I agree about the name. To call it "North Gold Dust" seems a little insulting since it certainly is a separate peak.
The approach wasn't too bad from the west. There's a good deal of boulder hopping across the basin getting to the Gold Dust-Finnegan saddle, but once we were over the saddle we traversed the prominent ledge system northward to get to the bottom of our route. Getting down Finnegan's west slope was a bit of a scree and talus workout in some fairly steep gullies, as I recall.
Thanks for posting some good information about this spectacular area.
One other thing, I'm curious if anyone else has climbed the steep snow/ice couloir on the North Face of Savage Peak?
Colonelpyat - May 31, 2006 7:08 am - Hasn't voted
Re: UN 13,346I would presume that couloir on Savage has been climbed a few times. It's a hard one to miss and is visible from the road over there in places. I took a good look down it and it looks hairy. What's amazing about it is that it has seen ski descents. Lou Dawson covers it in one of his books. Hardly looks wide enough to do any sort of turn.
Mountain Jim - May 31, 2006 9:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: UN 13,346Wow !!! Skiers are crazier than climbers. It does get a wee bit narrow in places.
Thanks for the info ... keep up the good work.
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