Looking up at the first pitch...

Looking up at the first pitch of the Southwest Buttress from our anchor above the larch tree. It starts out very easy but gets real at those two blocks you see half way up.

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climbit

climbit - Jun 22, 2004 12:50 pm - Hasn't voted

Yeah...

Especially if Martin "promises" a 5.6 pitch and then leads right around the slanting 5.8 crack and then pulls the rope tight and left around the 20-ft block above it!! :-)

SLLLAAAAAAAAAACKKKKKK!!!!!!

At least Martin WAS leading (and led it well) and not me. Thanks, buddy! It was an excellent entry to the climb.

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jun 25, 2004 1:29 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Yeah...

I agree. I would recommend this pitch over the ledge traverse above the chockstone described in Selected Climbs. It gives you an additional pitch of nice climbing on the route.

NYC007

NYC007 - Jun 20, 2006 4:48 am - Hasn't voted

sw rib

WE did this start, it looks a lot better that the jungle start.. or ledge traverse. it was fun though!

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jun 20, 2006 5:00 am - Hasn't voted

Re: sw rib

Cool. Nice job Matt! Did ya try the variation?

NYC007

NYC007 - Jun 21, 2006 9:56 pm - Hasn't voted

no

I didnt notice it. WE did have a reall good look at the boving roof, didnt look all that bad what mid 10, good hands and feet.

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jun 21, 2006 10:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: no

Yeah, it looks sweet! I heard it was 10b face to get to the undercling then the crack is sustained 5.9.

NYC007

NYC007 - Jun 22, 2006 4:58 am - Hasn't voted

nice

we should have givin it a go, I have bad luck with guessing the grade, I thought mr clean on lower castle looked 5.8..no way

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