Lop Zarth - The Big Yellow (5668m)

Overview

The mountain Lop Zarth got his name by the locals. It means "The Big Yellow"  because of its scary, yellow south face of the mountain, which arises in the middle of Zarthgurben. The peak was unclimbed because 1. no 6000m peak 2. looks hard to climb. We found a rather easy access to the north face which we climbed in spring 2018. The team consisted of Stefan Ager, Andreas Gumpenberger, Johannes Aitzetmüller and Martin Sieberer.

Lop Zarth South Face

Getting There

From Islamabad over the Karakoram Highway to Karimabad. From there by local agency via the exposed Shimshal Road to the beautiful Shimshal Village (3000m). Over 1000 vertical meters hike you reach a hut on Zarthgurben (4000m), a high plateau, which serves as Basecamp.

Route

From Zarthgurben follow the easy path to Uween-E-Sar pass. About 100 vertical meters under the pass follow the obvious couloir over easy mixed terrain to the south-east ridge of Lop Zarth. Follow on the southside of the ridge till you reach a nearly flat shoulder(ca.5200m). There are plenty of safe bivouac places on the way there. Here we roped up. Traverse a few hundred meters into the northface(>40°) and overclimb the Bergschrund where its possible. You see an obvious mixed chimney. Belay and follow the chimney (about M5) till you probably find our ice screw after a 50m pitch. Follow the snow ridge and reach over easy mixed terrain to the summit of Lop Zarth. Watch out for the big snow cornice on the top.

 

 

When to Climb

Spring or fall

Camping

Basecamp Zarthgurben. In Shimshal you can live in a guest house quite cheap.

External Links

Story of our First Ascent (german) on lensecapestories.com