Lost Arrow Tip

Lost Arrow Tip

Shirley doing the "limp tyrolean" traverse from summit of Lost Arrow Spire back to rim following our climb of Lost Arrow Tip (June 6, 2004).
on Jun 7, 2004 5:59 pm
Image Type(s): Aid Climbing
Image ID: 55916


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Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Jun 7, 2004 6:14 pm - Hasn't voted


That would be a tyrolean traverse - not a tension traverse ( although she may have been tense )!


rpc - Jun 7, 2004 8:37 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Tyrolean


think we did not do a real Tyrolean. Basically, we dragged the fixed (rim) line, tensioned it, put jummars onto it, and rapped off the summit with two ropes (single would've been enough for the rap).

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Jun 8, 2004 5:37 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Tyrolean

OK. A tension traverse however, is similar to a pendulum where you cross a blank section of slab " on tension ". Your doing a " Limp Tyrolean " - just add Viagra!


rpc - Jun 8, 2004 6:18 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Tyrolean

You're right Craig - I'll go back and change the captions......"limp tyrolean" sounds right :)



jtschanz - Jun 7, 2004 6:44 pm - Voted 10/10


Holy #&@*! Nice shot!


rpc - Jun 7, 2004 8:38 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: awesome!

Thanks Jim!


Dragger - Jun 7, 2004 7:35 pm - Hasn't voted


Hey, way to go! It's always a bit of a mind game -- up there, exposed, knowing that whether it's a 100 or 1000 ft. fall the result is the same -- but man, seeing pictures of that traverse always spooks me.

I wonder if we ran into you guys at all. We were in the valley in C4, three women. Were on Munginella and the Apron (the Grack and Harry Daley)

Anyway, great shot.


rpc - Jun 7, 2004 8:44 pm - Hasn't voted


Thank you very much for stopping by and the nice words. Our Valley stay was pretty brief - basically 5pm Saturday till 9pm Sunday (just limited to bus rides from/to Curry Village parking).

You're absolutely right about it being a mind game. I found this climb to consist of 3 mental cruxes: (1) make myself rap into the "dark, cold" notch in the morning, (2) make myself start P2 and (3) make myself "tension" across the void on the return (guess at this point there really wasn't much choice :)

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