Solo traverse,no partners.Beautiful day,no wind no clouds.I think easyer than many people supposed.Just a secure footstep is required.May be from east to west is better than what i did.
Very impressive and long traverse: the horizontal snowy/icy ridge is very sharp, smaller than mountaineering boot, it's only question of equilibrium, you have nothing to hold...difficult belay.
Earlier in the morning we climbed the Castor and decided to attempt the Lyskamm with the same effort.
A huge mountain compared to the twins and the route offerede some fine walking on top of the knife-sharp ridge.
After a short sleep about 1h? we left from bivacco Farmero (read: sleepingbag on rock 1h above monte rosa hut). The route towards the face is very frightning when dark and foggy. Wild landscape!!!
When reaching the face you see huuuuuuuuuuuuge block of ice all around you. At the time the seracs were not so active, but best is to make some hurry the first 300hm. When we reached the rocks it seemed safe. Good conditions made it no problemo to reach the summit. Tricky descent of the E-ridge to the highest hut in the Alps, Rif.Margeritha on the Punkta Gniffeti. Day after we descended over the Zumsteinspitze and Dufour back to Zermatt. Excellent tour....
An very impressive mountain. We've found good conditions at the N-face. Over all a long, demanding thing ...