Ski route from Passo Fedaia
Third time on Marmolada. This time I climbed it with my girlfriend. West ridge ferrata up and normal route down. Cloudy on top but still nice views in between. Huge crevasses on the glacier!
With my brothers via the West ridge Via ferrata. We decided to turn around at the last glacier section just before the summit because we didn't feel completely safe with the little glacier practice we've had.
A very nice and long day on the mountain nonetheless :-)
Ascent from Via Ferrata and descent on the normal route to the glacier. Second climb
Initially planned to climb the via ferrata but it was iced over, so normal route up and down, mildly technical.
Via ferrata on the West ridge and descended down the glacier to Fedaia
South Ridge "normal route" from Rif. Fiacconi (top of Seggiovia loft) via the glacier, with one crevasse crossing, a short VF2 (Not mentioned in the Cicerone guide), then snow ridge to Punta Penia. Great weather, with bright sunshine, +10C and views forever. Technically easy in summer, but still requires full equipment for safety. Other may think this a trivial route but, this was the highlight of my week long holiday hiking and VF'ing in the Dolomites.
Together with Iza, Krisztian and Péter we had a great time on this climb although we started really late thanks to an anticyclone that allowed us not to worry about the weather. Amazing view from the top. Brilliant!
Had heard that the via ferrata was pretty hard and exposed but it turned out to be disappointingly straightforward. Hut at the summit was closed and views were hazy in the extreme. Loved my time in the Dolomites but this was no highlight
Marmolada was a very special mountain. We climbed across the pretty via ferrata (west) crossing the small glacier with crampons (it had some ice). We descended across the normal route using rope in the glacier because it had a crevasse near of the area of the descent from the summit. It was a day to remember for a long time.
Quite beautiful but crowded route.
Hans-Seyffert Weg - June 2018.
Another fantastic day on west ridge via ferrata. Bit tricky with some passages covered with snow but overall superb.
Hans-Seyffert Weg - June 2017.
Perfect weather, good snow conditions. Nice day out.
Hans-Seyffert Weg - June 2012.
Nice and easy via-ferrata. Offers great views to the South. Short, 4,5 hours round trip from the upper station of the cable-car.
North face - August 2010.
Nice route, bit complicated. Finished the face exact at the point where the normal route exits the cables at Schena de Mul.
No views from the top at all.
Descended by the normal route.
Trip with Ania (Mooliczek) and Igor (Igi).
Very pretty line and absolutely enjoyable, fast climbing.
More demanding if the snow conditions are poor (like we had).
North face offers many options to take. Especially, it gets a bit complicated (if it comes to the routefinding) when there isn't much snow on it (like we had).
We did the "rocky" part mostly on the left side of the face. Many rocks uncovered formed unexpected obstacles, but manageable. The quality of rock itself is horrbile there, so in fact most of our rock set gear was useless.
But overall - great trip, great company, great climbing!
Done with Igi and Jck.
More photos and trip report (in Polish) here.
Just curious to see what others who have done the Punta Penia route from rifugio Fiacconi would think about using aluminum crampons on this route. I'm looking to save weight but I'm not sure this would make sense. I'll be over in August so the via ferrate section should be free of ice/snow normally. But it sounds like there could be verglas on it depending upon the weather leading up to the climb.
I'm coming from the states so I was thinking of just bringing both steel and aluminum crampons and then deciding once I'm over there.
Any comments appreciated.
My first time on Marmolada.
Have climbed Punta Penia using the normal glacier route up and down. Perfect weather conditions with spectacular views!
I climbed to the peak via ferrata twice. Once I approached it from the North from Lago di Fedaia: a beautiful ascent with views of the Sella and other groups. Before, also in the summer, I hiked up from Malga Ciapela through Rif. Falier and approached it close to the impressive southern walls. This route was longer and more lonely with almost no snow. Both are unforgettable and beautiful routes and the almost 2h ferrata to the top is amazing. Quite exposed at times but very well secured. Even in fog it was possible to navigate and reach the peak easily.
First glacier !.....massive storm on top, so we ate polenta and drank grappa until it passed.
via normal way.Steel rope above the glacier partly under snow...No people on the route.Unforgetable views!
Climbed with my climbing friend Natalia and Radek (Brade)
Normal- 28 May 2009
climbed with Natalia and Ivona. Snow conditions good only before sunrise. Descent by rappels along the same route.
Normal- 28 Aug 2008, Solo
5 hours roundtrip from parking, not using cablecar. I was first to the summit that day. Nasty glacier :/ and perfect weather.
Climbed Marmolada on the 22. using the normal glacier route up and down (wind was too strong for the via ferrata route). rdeached the top in three hours. Down again in 1,5 h.
Climbed again on the 24th, via ferrate up and glacier down (though not much glacier left). The Via ferrata route is not that difficult and much less crowded. Very nice mountain indeed.