Martuljek Group annotated

From this point of view some passages are better seen than from the point more eastwards. To read labels comfortably, see the high resolution image. The original image is here.

First, note the two basins of the Nortern Martuljek Group: Za Akom (left) and Pod Srcem (right). They are reached by marked trails and in both there are bivouacs.

From Za Akom, only rarely anyone climbs the N ridge of Kukova špica. The other direction, into the basin behind Široka peč is also demanding, but quite rewarding. Once you are ove teh UIAA III passage, from the basin you can either climb Široka peč (III), Dovški Križ or Škrnatarica.

Next direction is most popular. From Za Akom it brings you to the beautiful 3 larches point (1700 m). From there,  left goes Jug's couloir on Dovški Križ, straight goes the climb on Grlo pass (anf fuirther on Oltar), and to the right goes a tour till below Velika Martuljška Ponca,

The couloir between Oltar and Velika Martuljška Ponca is very steep, but from the notch only a nice climb of UIAA I goes on Oltar. From the notch between Velika and Mala Ponca, an easy ridge climb (I) goes on the latter. Velika is rarely climbned from this side.

Finally, you can see that a passace goes up towards Mala Ponca also from the Pod Srcem basin. There are some easy climbs and scrambles to do.

Basically, all of these climbs are best done in early summer, when the couloirs are still filled with snow. Some of these tours are also alpinistic ski tours (very demanding).