Climbed in one day the Mattehorn by Lion ridge. From Duca degli Abruzzi to the summit in 5 h 30 min and the same time to go down. From the "Gran corda" to the "scala Jordan" by using crampons. Absolutely a great experience, a great feat.
After trying last year and early this summer (weather did not allow), this 3rd time the dream becomes true.
Excellent and hard climb of 10 hours up and down:
4h30am Rolando and I leave the hut, just after Zermatt guides & their clients. 9h30am we are in the summit alone. We are in the middle of the faster and the slower ropes. Weather is good but annouced deterioration is coming up. This forecast is the reason why not too many people climbing today. We hurry down to the hut which we reach at 2h30pm. We take some refreshment and down to the telecabine which we reach at 4pm. Down to Zermatt then to enjoy some beer and typical saussages.
All in all, a wonderful though tough experience enabled fundamentally by friendship with Rolando and good dose of determination and preparation.
Very worthwhile and exhausting climb! We had plenty of snow on the ridge in previous days/weeks, and even new snow the night before. It took us a long time compared to many of the times I see here (very impressive). Walking at 4:00 am. At the Solvay Hut at 8:00 am. On the summit at 11:00 am. Back to the Hoernli Hut at 7:15 pm.
Out of 45-50 people attempting, it seemed that 14 (including us) made the summit. We were the last summitters by about 30 minutes, which gave wonderful solitude on the summit and the way down!
With Theron Welch. (SP user "OZNID").
I'm loving it!
Fantastic Tour to Matterhorn 4478m.
my picture are here: Link to Matterhorn 4478m
Unfortuneatly a meter of new snow prevented the summit opportunity. Though it was a perfect day for climbing... self preservation came up as priority. A fantastic climb, understandable danger, loose rock is for certain, but a focused mind and steady step... this beast can be accomplished. made it about 3/4.
We've had so far 3 attempts on this route, one in June, one in the end of August followed by one in September, all in 2006. Two times we reached the Carrel Hut and spend some time there but were stopped by heavy winds and snow storms, every time every piece of the route looked very different. We didn't use the normal route on this side as it was too dangerous, but went early up the couloir to the Col de Leone.
This year in early July it was too dangereous to even start the route, a pity as I have enough of staying on the Italian side and next time probably we'll try from the Swiss side. Anyway I've learned a lot:))
Despite the crowds this rates as the climb of a lifetime. I climbed this with a Scottish guide and we both had a great time. The weather was spot on and we were both climbing well. We simul-climbed the entire route and made it up and down in 7 hours, we got stuck in a lot of traffic though. Jonny thinks we could have done it in 5.5 hours if we hadn't had so many people on the mountain with us. I had heard bad things about the route quality but I thought the rock was solid, the exposure tremendous and the views to die for. Definitely a mountain worth visiting despite the crowds.
First on the summit that day. Luckily my friend and climbing partner is one of the top guides in the area, so he made sure we were in front! Awesome climb - it jazzed me totally for the rest of the summer.
A perfect day, clear sky and no wind. Started out at about 4:00 and reached the summit at 7:15. We could not have a better day to try the Matterhorn.
attempt: with SP Member JCK we climbed to Solvay at 20-03-2006 holding ridge line almost all the time(!) because of powder snow on both sides(traverses were to dangerous). It was snowing half of way up. Not very difficult but risky/hard conditions.
We stayed there due to huge snowfall. After 3 days we decided to get down not reaching the Summit (we had no more time to attack the top)- it took us 11 hours of descending to Hornlihutte! Felt like on snow minefield
Waiting for the second chance.
Read our Trip Report:
Matterhorn in Winter Tastes Bittersweet
We had to turn 300m under the summit because a weather got worse.
We climbed by Hörnligrat.
returned due hard wind, will only try it again via the zmuttridge
What a pyramid from the bottom. A must. Left hut at 4.55. QUite some crowd. Solvay hut at 7am, summit at 8.30. Breathtakingly exposed summit. descent in 3 hrs, takes loooonger than expected. Technically not difficult climb, but strenuous as almost permanent rock climibing (I or II grade, some III). Enormous potential to lose route especially when descending. Likely need crampons on top (we put on at 4200m). We met quite some people (even solo!) without crampons up there. That's the risky folks that cause the bad reputation of the Horn. Several turned around! A dream climb in the end...
After two weeks of soloing in Saastal and in Mattertal I was privileged to get to join my friend Kurt from Durango, Colorado. Our primary aim was to ascend the Zmuttgrat. However the guides at the Hörnli Hut were not too encouraging about the conditions on the lower ridge. Despite that we woke up early and headed to the foot of the North face. Summer had been exceptionally warm so the glacier had retreated from the rocks making it difficult to find a way to the upper glacier and getting to circumnavigate to the ridge. After being threatened by rocks falling at the speed of sound we decided to aim for the Hörnli instead.
The Hörnli was in very good condition the rocks being dry and the snow consolidated. Wind was fierce though and it made half of the ascending groups turn back and retreat. We reached the windy summit in 5,5 hrs. The weather was exceptionally clear; not a single cloud.
Descending the Matterhorn is not trivial; it took us more time to get down than to the summit.
I was very happy to make it the second time. I enjoyed myself a lot more than on the first time. What bothers me is that I did not shoot as many photos as I would've liked to; climbing the Hörnli is a huge task and You need to be able to move fast. You easily forget to shoot during the climbing.
Photos coming soon to www.samulimansikka.com
Climbed with Nico and Drew/Pika. We brought the climb forward by a day to take advantage of a clear window - all other days that week, the mountain had been hit by afternoon/evening storms. Italian side closed because of stone falls casued by warm weather. Left the Hoernli Hut at 4am with some 40-50 others. Some stupid Swiss guide caused a row at the first fixed rope by queue barging. Very arrogant and unprofessional. Long, long climb during which I was struck by stones from above and saw several major stone falls onto the east face. Summitted at 8am - remarkably few people up there - and what a sight! Descent to Hoernli Hut 4.5 hours and v tiring. Tremendous day.
A great looking pyramid with a lot of vertical feet below you all the time. I climbed the Hörnligrat solo. As most of the time in the mountains I had nice sunny weather. Reading notes of other climber about how crowded this route is these days, at my day I only met twenty people. A friend of mine from the Czech republic died on this mountain while doing the same solo climb in 1991. Solo climb.
After a bad storm in the night lots of climbers went back, but my guide wanted to try to make the summit. We startet at 0550 with very cold conditions and snow/ice covered the rocks and fix ropes. After a little over 4 hours we summited as the only climbers trying from the Italian side this day. All the climb was made with crampons, but the route was in very good conditions. After 4 years of trying i finally got on the summit!
I didn't really like the route, it was too irrational and full of loose rocks. We were damn slow and had to bivouac on the mountain; fortunately it wasn't too cold. There was a storm with sleet and thunders, I even got slightly zapped by a lightning on the descent, around Pic Tyndall. The Carrel shelter was really nice.
Having had unsettled weather for several days we set out from the Hörnli hut at 6 am in starlight. There was a lot of snow and ice on the Matterhorn this year which demanded going with crampons almost all the way. The traffic was not bad, only 25 persons on the mountain, this day. The weather stayed beautiful but I still had a hard time on this famous mountain. Finally, we were rewarded with some fabulous minutes at the summit before going the long way down, (August 8, 1997).