Some of the best exposure in Sierra's. Highly reccommend completing the fin north of North Summit.
Climbed this with Sheldon Moomaw in the 70's and Mark Bowling twenty years later. Day hiked it both times. I wrote an article about this route for Rock and Ice magazine a few years ago.
Climbed with long time partner John Pfeiffer. Great fun. Approached via Cathedral Lakes and returned down Budd Creek. Knees getting a little gimpy and slow but still managed to avoid needing the headlamp.
Shauna Hermes, Liz Morelli, Michael Gordon and I did this fantastic climb in one day from the car, parked at HWY 120. We started at 04:30 and came back at about 6:00PM, a long day. We climbed as two parties of two and had a grand time. Decided to rap off at the North Summit as we were slowing down and it was now 1:00 PM. This route is an incredible tribute to Ellen and Chuck Wilts, Honorary Members of our SCMA club. They pioneered the route in the 40s. Thank you Mrs. Wilts (if you happen to read this message)!
A classic indeed. Car to car in 10 hours, with 3 hours on the route. Take the first lead and run it to the start of the ridge. A true classic pitch with REALLY fun sections. Thought the last section to the summit was kinda wierd. A great day, one to never forget. The approach from Budd Lake is really enjoyable, with great views throughout. Take a light rack medium cams and a long rope.
This really is a classic. I found an old Alcoa Aluminum carabiner at the base too!
Everybody loves the climbs they've done, but this really does stand out as being just an awful lof of fun. Did it from the car in a day. Didn't complete the whole traverse, but rapped from the summit.
Man is this one of the climbs in the Sierra not to miss!!!! Fun climbing to get on the crest, fun pitches to get on the towers. And you'll never see anyone over there. I think the summit log goes back to the early 80's, and its a little book.
This was the most exciting rock climb I've done yet in the Sierras. Better than Cathedral Peak's SE buttress, even. Nothing like a bunch of class 3 with exposure! Trip Report