can't imagine wearing a rope on this one. More trouble than it's worth. And despite what some guidebooks say, the second half (past the summit) is excellent.
Went south to north. Came up and over Cockscomb. Excellent day great/weather/good partner.
Soloed to the north summit with Kristina. The climbing to gain the ridge and the 5.7 crack to the north summit were the most fun but the entire stroll was a blast.
Approach: Plenty of easy snow fields to cross to get to the Echo shoulder, then some steep snow fields on the final Matthes approach (I kicked steps in approach shoes and was glad to have a trekking pole for balance).
Rap beta: From the north summit, a short vertical rap got us to the next station, then two full length raps (60m rope) got us to the top of the snow field, which we skirted with some class 4 rock downclimbing.
The summit register could use a new book if anyone is going up there.
Solo'd to the North Tower with Dug which means I got to carry the rope for the rappel. Lots of snow on the approach. No bugs, no wind. The perfect day climb.
Had to rap off at the start of the traverse do to in coming weather
Great climb. Will go back.
With James Barnett..Fun!!
A long day (15 hrs car-to-car) as we climbed this beautiful ridge as a party of three (Mark Ingram, Sam Eichelberger and I). We belayed the first 2 pitches to get to the crest (60M ropes) and then simul-climb until the notch between the south and north summit. Belayed the last pitch to get to the north summit. As it was getting late, we rapped off the north summit. I guess I gotta go back and finish the full traverse some day.
long day car to car, as ropes got stuck rapping... sweet route.
Climbed with Derek Bomholt. Simul-climbed the whole thing except that last pitch to the North Summit. An awesome fun climb on a beautiful day in the Sierra. Much easier than it looked. Took the 5.8 variation at the North Summit to cap off a great day.
Very fine climb with Misha. Great rock. Beatiful scenery. I really enjoyed it.
My 2nd climb of the route in one year. This time we bagged both South and North summits and continued for the rest of the ridge. Belayed for three pitches, rapped from the South summit to the notch, solo'd the rest of the 1st half of the route and simul'd the 2nd half. The 2nd half of the route was more exposed and technically challenging than I anticipated. One of the exposed ~5.8 downclimbs on the 2nd half of the route almost got me, but I presevered thanks to the calm encouragement by my climbing partner, Pavel. I could not wish for a more solid partner to do this route with. The weather was impeccable! We started from the trailhead at around 6:15am and returned at 8pm. A long and beautiful day!
Typical Sierra ridge climbing. Not really my thing, but still fun. Good views.
Climbed with Romain & Rene the full length of the ridge, minus the two northernmost towers. The outstanding climbing was surpassed only by the outstanding partners I had with me - a truly great day. Only roped for the one pitch to the North Summit - might have to try soloing it next time. :-) Trip Report
Insane climbing! We roped up for 3 pitches (2 pitches to get to the crest and 1 pitch from the notch to the North summit) and solo'd the rest. We will be back next year, for sure!
Second time a charm! Climbed with Mike Chen in August 2014 from south end to the North Summit. The last 5.7 face pitch was sketchy, but once we took off packs it became doable. Very exciting climb!
This has got to be one of the most aesthetic peaks. Climbed with Dirk (Diggler) on a day hike. What a beautiful climb with fun exposure, and the approach is very scenic too. Unfortunately stormy weather forced us to bail near the South Summit.
Climbed with Bob Burd and Rene' Renteria. A great day. The best part of the climb is the airy ridge traverse North of the summit. There is awesome exposure and some pretty interesting downclimbs. A photo TR can be found here.
Very fun route. Technically, not terribly challenging, but good exposure and location -- all day.