McConnell Peak

Overview

McConnell Peak is part of the northern Crystal Range in the northeastern quadrant of the Desolation Wilderness outside of Lake Tahoe. This peak is one of the less-climbed mountains the Tahoe Basin, with its attraction chiefly being for northern Sierra peakbaggers and chasers of the Tahoe Ogul list. Its presence in the middle-north of the northern Crystal Range (Tells Peak to Red Peak) means that access requires summiting at least one mountain on the range first - so McConnell Peak can be near the start or the end of a big (and rewarding!) day.

Interestingly, McConnell Peak proper is not actually the highest point in its immediate vicinity. That award goes to McConnell Spur, which is located around a half mile to the SSE. In my opinion, Mcconnell Spur is the true "Ogul" peak to hit, at an elevation 9120+ feet and a prominence of 440 feet compared to McConnell Peak's 59 feet. But for now, McConnell peak is the listed Ogul - much in the way that Silver Peak's southwest summit near Highland Peak is the Ogul as opposed to its higher northeast summit.

Getting There

As with Tells Peak, McConnell Peak is best accessed either via the Highland Trail from the north, or as a part of the Crystal Range Traverse from the south. The most hardcore of the northern Sierra peakbaggers will traverse the entire Crystal Range from Pyramid Peak on up; this page assumes that mere demigods will traverse only the northern half, which includes Tells Peak, McConnell Peak, Silver Peak, and Red Peak.

The northern Crystal Range Traverse (which really is the best, safest, and easiest way to get to McConnell Peak) uniformly begins at the same parking space near the Van Vleck Bunkhouse (labeled such on quads and GPS services like GaiaGPS). Follow the below directions to get there:

Drive on I-50 and turn north onto Ice House Road. Continue north for around 22-25 miles past Ice House Reservoir, Union Valley Reservoir, and Big Silver Group Campground. When you get near "Robbs Valley" on quads and GPS devices such as GaiaGPS, turn right onto "Van Vleck Ranch Road", also designated as "13N22" on GPS maps. Drive around 4-5 more miles so you are past the "Van Vleck Bunkhouse" on maps, and then drive around 1/2 more mile until you arrive at a gate. Park here (there's a bit of a turnaround in the dirt), and get ready!

Ice House Road is completely paved and was in excellent condition in mid-July 2023. There should be no issues for any road-legal vehicle. The Van Vleck Road was dirt, but a smooth dirt road that I had no issues getting up in my 2WD base model Jeep Compass.

Route

To restate the above: McConnell Peak is climbed during a Crystal Range Traverse. It is possible to ascend it via a combination of bushwhacking and Class 2-3 scrambling from the east or west, but that's inefficient and a slog compared to just doing the traverse. For expediency's sake, I'm only going to describe access from the north (via Tells Peak) or the south (via Silver Peak and Red Peak).

Some of this information might repeat what's already been shared on those mountains' SummitPost pages. Consider it a refresh. All routes along the Crystal Range require Class 3 scrambling.

From the North (via Tells Peak):

1. Follow the Highland Trail toward Tells Peak, which is approximately 6-7 miles of hiking on USFS dirt roads and the Highland Trail. You will navigate a short spiderweb of roads for the first two miles; ensure that you continue to head north and east.
2. After around 1.5-2 miles of walking on the roads from the starting area/gate, head east on the Highland Trail. Stay on it for around 4 miles - it will have a few sudden moments of steepness, but nothing horrible. After passing Forni Lake near 8000 feet, the steepness begins in earnest as Tells Peak's mild summit comes into view on climber's left.
3. Upon reaching the saddle, you may either tag Tells Peak or head south along the ridgeline toward McConnell Peak.
4. The ridgeline proper is primarily sustained Class 3 scrambling. This can be made easier by dipping slightly to the west (climber's right) and avoiding some of the larger granitic pillars sitting straight in the middle. This puts you in a bit of a sandy slog and manzanita, but it does avoid the worst.
   1. If you choose to stay on the ridge, then you'll eventually have to navigate "Selene's Bean" - the highest and steepest of the pillars on the route. Selene's Bean requires 5.6-5.7 climbing to get up and over. You can also bypass it by dipping to the east and crossing some narrow ledges, then scrambling back up (Class 4) to regain the ridge. A fall on these ledges would put you in one of the most remote corners of Desolation Wilderness.
5. From here, the scrambling eases up a bit and becomes a mix of high Class 2 and low Class 3. Simply continue scrambling southwest on the ridge, and then you'll find the small tip of Mcconnell Peak as it angles up and over the northeast Desolation Wilderness - kind of like a miniature Mt. Agassiz in the south Crystal Range.
6. Continue some easy Class 2 scrambling and climb up the brief McConnell Spur (Class 3), then either retrace your steps (not recommended) or head toward Silver Peak (recommended).

From the South (via Silver Peak and Red Peak):

These directions assume you've summited the small yet steep talus summit of Silver Peak.

1. Scramble down the pointed ridge of Silver Peak to the northwest. This is approximately high Class 2 and low Class 3 scrambling with fairly solid and stable rock.
2. After hitting the saddle at around 8700 feet, continue scrambling northwest to reach the ridgeline toward McConnell Peak/Spur.
3. In around half a mile, you'll hit the backside of McConnell Spur. Give it a good high-five via the Class 3 scrambling here (easier on the south side than the north side), then continue on the ridge.
4. After some more easy Class 2 traversing, you'll hit McConnell Peak. Touch the summit block, just a little touch, as a treat.
5. Here is where the scrambling is arguably a little harder than approaching from the north, as now you're headed down toward Selene's Bean rather than up. As with the northern approach, either dip down toward the west and put up with the sand and brush until you clear the pillars, or drop east and sidle along the ledges.
6. Head back up, complete the Class 2 talus, and either take the Highland Trail back to the parking area, or tag Tells Peak first.

Red Tape

The Highland Trail begins in the El Dorado National Forest, for which there is no red tape or access issues. Desolation Wilderness is free for day-hiking with no required permits. Overnight trips into Desolation Wilderness require a permit that can be acquired through the Recreation.gov website. Ensure that you follow the camping guidelines and select the proper zone for your overnight trip.

When to Climb

Tells Peak may be climbed at any time of the year, though snowfall can significantly restrict access to the Highland Trail. Spring, summer, and fall are all excellent times to attempt both this summit and the traverse.

External Links

McConnell Peak trip report for July 11, 2023 (and other information about the northern Crystal Range Traverse): link.