When I hit the face at the top of the talus, after doing the first ledge and seeing the second ledge, I just couldn't stomach doing this many ledges all the way up so I dropped down and went a different route to the east up steep chutes. At the top of the last chute required some exposed class 4 to summit. I only did it because my friends ended up doing the standard ledge route and were just above me on the summit. I knew I could just go down the standard way if I just rock climbed up. So I did. Turns out that "second ledge" was the only real issue with the standard route. The rest is ok, just take it slow.
Started in afternoon after boat ride. Took wrong route up, right side, nasty loose rock. Found the "door" to the summit across a snow chute. Came down chute and off rock right as it got dark. Hiked in moon light back to Coon Lake by ~1:00 AM.
went up the scramble side. look hard for the red arrows, they are hard to see but they are there. if in doubt, continue looking and look for the old cable way. the route follows the cable-way most of the way. what ever you do, do not guess the route or you will most likely get stuck in a bad place. my sister did and she went up with a ranger who had a radio and they still got stuck. the red arrows are there just look hard. when you come to a painted arrow, stand there until you locate the next one, but always keep an arrow in sight.
also, go the the golden west vc and talk to someone who has done it. they have a pic of the section with the route outlined so you can see it before you are there. but make sure whoever you are talking to has done it. talk to brett the ranger if he is there, he's done it a lot.
ca. June 6, 1993. Climbed with NOLS as part of North Cascades Moutaineering course. One of the first summits from the trip. Unfortunately, I don't remember much about the route other than that there was still a material amount of snow and no visible trail. The postholing was horrendous on the approach from the lake.
Follow painted arrowws when visible, when not, use best judgement. The normal route crosses to the top of the Sandalee Glacier and reaches the summit from that side.
Hiked up to Heaton Camp made camp and tried for a summit. But with lack of route knowledge at the time we couldn't get to the summit. But we did go up a chute to the right of the repeater and go tawful close. That night was the peak of the Perseid Meteor Shower so we got an awesome view of the meteors.