Started around 5AM. Could not have asked for a better day to climb. Lots of sun and no wind. Route finding was tricky getting to the pass. Lots of exciting scrambling to the top. A very quiet mountain. Lost the route going back from Stone Man Pass to Black Lake. I consider this to be a harder climb than Long's Peak during the summer. Back at car around 1PM.
fun day of scrambling with perfect weather
7/19/08 - Traversed the NE (aka Arrowhead) Arete from Arrowhead. This is a very interesting line as the crest of the ridge overhangs Glacier Gorge, a rock cornice if you will. Fun scrambling on bomber rock. Route can be kept 3rd class by staying away from the crest, or 4th class scrambling can be found closer to the crest. Fun but easy routefinding - we backed off one or two moderate 5th class sections. The scenery is absolutely amazing. Descended the standard route to Stoneman Pass - very steep 3rd class scrambling.
6/21/15 - Via McHenrys Notch Couloir. Very pleasant route. Moderate and very aesthetic line up a deeply inset couloir followed by a delightful low 5th class scramble up bomber rock. Descended standard route.
9/12/15 - As part of the Glacier Gorge Traverse: Arrowhead -> McHenrys -> Chiefs Head -> Pagoda -> Longs -> Storm.
Awesome scrambling above SM pass-lots of 4th - low 5th class stuff. My favorite RMNP 13er!
Climbed with Scot from Wild Basin, up to Lion Lake #2 and then up onto North Ridge (which is actually on Chiefs Head's south side) to the summit of Chiefs Head, traverse to McHenrys and then back down. We wanted to climb Mt Alice but weather moved in.
An excellent, exposed scramble up the Northeast Arête and down Stone Man Pass.
Got off route on the way up from the notch. Fantastic climbing. Best peak of the day.
With Chiefs Head & Alice.
traverse on ne arete fr arrowhead.. did this last year but wanted to come back and link on powell and thatchtop.. top day!
Long day. Lots of snow so it made the going slow below tree line. Good glassading on the way out.
Came over from Arrowhead via the n.e. arete. This is such a fun route! Lots of class 3/4 scrambling on mostly solid rock. Descended to Stone Man Pass. Toughest 13er in RMNP.
Hounded by ominous clouds much of the day, but the weather held until we were back down to Black Lake. Good times.
Went up McHenry's from Bear Lake TH (Glacier Gorge parking full) via Black Lake. Had perfect weather window (miracle for August) and started at 11am and finished at 830pm. Used long route around Black Lake, but this was nice because terrain beneath Spearhead beautiful. Stone Man gully a pain, but not too long. Scrambling beneath summit was challenging and I certainly did not want to fall in certain areas (I think I missed the best line near the top of the gully). Saw elk wading in lakes as I came out at dusk. Great day. Inspiring.
By far the most interesting of the 7 peaks climbed that day. The class 4 from the Notch was very solid, no route finding needed. Even the direct ridge to stone man was enjoyable. Well worth it.
This might possibly be my favorite mountain in the park to climb. So much variety and adventure, plus the summit is really cool!
Completely missed the gully to the summit. Ended up on the SW ridge in wet 5th class terrain. Clouds were moving in fast and I was getting a little on edge. Great hike, made the roundtrip in 5hrs 40 min. Didn't see another person until the ledges below Spearhead. The clouds came in early and I had to forego Chiefshead. I'd have to say the summit has one of the best vistas in RMNP. You could see nearly every major peak in the park.
On the trail a little after 6:00. Went the long and left route from Black Lake, as was climbing solo at the time and was scared of the shorter/steeper route to the right. Shortly beyond Black Lake bumped into Mark from MN who had tried it previously, and we ended up climbing together to the summit. The final gully stretch was some of the most enjoyable climbing I've done. If only there wasn't so much darn hiking and scrambling to get there. : ) Maybe 4:45 up, and a sluggish 4:15 down over rain slickened rocks. Mark left my lagging behind in the dust on the descent from Stoneman Pass.
Climbing this was my 26th birthday present to myself. Fantastic.
This was my 117th Rocky Mountain National Park peak and almost my last. Decending the snowfield back to Stone Man Pass I lost my iceaxe and started sliding headfirst. Fortunately a friend was at the bottom and caught me before I crashed into the rocks.