From the top of the first pitch of Shagadelic, climb 4th class up low angled sloping ramps up and right. Stop at the base of the dike and build a gear belay (C4#.5-1). This is a sustained and possible sandbagged 5.9 (or don’t climb it in the heat of the day). The guide references the dike as “so slick…reminiscent of climber polished limestone”. The crux is the first few clips off the deck. You can get some gear (nut) after that and then mantel up and continue climbing the right to left leaning dike clipping bolts for the remainder. With double ropes you can get back to the top of Shagadelic’s 1st pitch.
This appears to be a popular route. The start is on the right side of an obvious pillar against the wall. Snow can linger here until late into July. We also were approached by a bear here in 2017. He/she waited patiently to scope out our packs once we commenced climbing leading one to believe it was using climbers packs for food. Therefore we hauled our packs up the first pitch (5.7). It starts with a nice but short finger crack and then enters the wider corner of the right side which can be wet and chossy. Pull out of the corner onto bolts on the left face to the top of the pillar and fixed rap station. The next two pitches are all bolted, up and left. Climb sustained 5.7 through mostly chicken heads through ten bolts to a fixed rap anchor. More of the same for another ten bolts to yet another anchor (5.8). The last pitch has no rap, so either commit to walking off or down climbing (we down climbed it no worries). It is all gear, a light single rack will do. Route find your wall up through a series of sloping walls/roofs trending right (5.7). Double 60m ropes get you down from the top of pitch 3 in 3 raps. If you stop atop the pillar, you can climb Goldmember (5.9).
The guide has Super Chicken listed as 5.9**** or 5.9X****. Basically there is no reason to do the 3rd pitch. Not because of the X as it is only 5.7X to a fixed anchor in the middle of the wall (terminus) but more to do with the fact you can easily combine Super Chicken after its 2nd pitch with Chicken Little to the top of the formation, combining two routes at the same grade for a decent length climb. Super Chicken starts just left of the Yawn, one of my favorite routes in Tuolumne. The Yawn is the most notable landmark on this side of Medlicott Dome. Just down and left are several trees. Climb 5th class up to a wide crack/easy roof. Pull into the corner above (5.8) and onto the ledge up and right. Climb the far right option (5.9) to enter the tall, fun and easy hand corner crack (5.8). Continue up to its end and face climb through a single pro bolt, making the crux move of the route but traversing up and left to the fixed rap anchor. You need a 70m rope to make this in one pitch and if you do not use proper extensions, will incur a lot of rope drag at the crux. You can avoid this by doing a short first pitch or stopping at a small ledge well below the bolt and crux move. To access Chicken Little, traverse left almost 200’ to a relatively dirty crack on the left side of the ledge. This is a left to right slanting crack left of the small tree (2017).
The best use of Chicken Little is to extend Super Chicken to the top of the formation, making for a decent length 5.9 climb. There really is not much run out in this route despite the guide giving it an R. The topo shows it on the 2nd to last pitch at 5.7R but it felt more like 5th class and there seemed to be ample pro. After doing the 5.6 traverse off of Super Chicken over to the base of the left to right slanting dirty crack, start up what is mostly a 5.7 corner. Pay attention if you want to stay on route. You are suppose to pull out of the crack (5.8) about mid height onto another crack in the face out left that has several pitons in it. I missed that (topo is not all that clear upon quick glance) and continued up the obvious corner which, according to the topo, turns 5.10 to the base of a hand crack going up the left side of a large block. I did not feel this finish was 5.10, felt more like 5.9, but more importantly, you will need a 70m rope to avoid simul climbing to the base of that block where you will have to build an anchor. The pitch is suppose to reach the top of the block but even if you angle it different, I do not see that happening. I liked the natural finish I did with a little simul climbing or 70m rope. A bit chossy, but fun. Do a short pitch up the left side of the block to a large ledge. Then a long easy pitch (5.8) until you feel the need to stop. And one final 4th class rope length to the summit right where the Yawn ends up.
Excellent... most worthy of carrying Monty Burns' legacy. We came back a few days later for Shagadelic so we could properly "summit" the dome.
My first day back on climbing after the injury...
Following only. Before this, we did Golfer's Route on Low Profile Dome. Tuolumne was amazingly peaceful and quiet. Loved it like this. :)
Finished the entire route and descended from the top and back. A very nice walk!!
Over from other peaks in the area on an afternoon hike, watched the sunset from here and Mariuolumne Dome, so back in the dark.
Traversed over from Cathedral and Eichorn, continued to Fairview Dome. Trip Report
Beautiful route up those trademark Tuolumne knobs.
Climbed with my friend K. Chaltikian - he led first and third pitches (5.8); I led the second pitch (5.7). Fun knob climbing on the 2nd & 3rd pitches.
We rapped off with double 60m ropes since it was getting late, and the last pitch didn't sound all that great. There was still some snow at the base. We had wanted to do Aqua Knobby (5.9) over on Pywiack Dome that afternoon, but it looked busy ..
Mary and I climbed a few routes here on a 2-day trip to Tuolumne. We had some trouble finding the start of Super Chicken (5.9, 2 pitches)...I was expecting a much bigger corner system. There were some stout crack moves in the middle section and the face moves to gain the anchor were pretty exciting. We rapped down, had a snack, and then climbed Shagadelic (5.8, 4 pitches) to the top. Sustained climbing on pitches 2 and 3 with great views towards Half Dome. We hiked off from the top, past a beautiful hidden lake, and down to Cathedral Lake where we picked up the trail back to the car.
Traversed east slope from Cathedral Peak. Peak #2 of 5 that day. A really nice day in Yosemite.
Very fun and very well bolted. Good intro to Tuolumne climbing
Great climb. Follow a dike with an easy roof.
Slippery climbing on Ciebola! 5.10b 2 pitches.
Did some other sport routes there as well.
Cool and easy multipitch route that deserves more traffic. Etsuko and I led it on a casual Saturday afternoon. Took us about 4 hours to reach the top from the car. Incredible views!