Mentmore

Overview

When choosing a climbing destination Gallup, NM is not likely to be on the top of your list; or anywhere on your list for that matter. However, you'd be suprised by the number of quality climbs on the sandstone cliffs outside of town. With a range of difficulties, easy access, and local amenitities, Mentmore is a great place to do some climbing.

Mentmore is comprised of two separate areas, the new area and the original area. Both contain single-pitch sandstone climbs with many great moderate routes. Nearly all routes have easy top-rope access. Many are sport routes with some trad routes. This area can be climbed year round although there will be a number of days in the winter that may be too cold for climbing. Other times of the year it can get extremely windy with blowing sand but you can still climb. The area is owned by the city of Gallup so there are no access issues although the railroad tracks behind the original area should be avoided since they are regularly used. The original area is well established with many great routes. The new area sees new climbs being added every year. Some locals believe the ratings in this area are slightly overrated.

Getting There

From I-40 take exit 16 and turn west onto Route 66. About 1/4 mile down turn right (north) onto Co Rd 1. Just over 1/2 mile turn left (west) onto Mentmore Rd. Continue down this road just over a mile where the road will make a hard right turn. A dirt road will continue straight where this paved road turns. Go straight onto the dirt road down to the parking area.

Original Area- From the parking area walk west along the path/dirt road down into the arroyo then up again towards the visible cliffs. The approach takes 5-10 minutes and can be done in sandals. Be careful of broken glass and other garbage as this area used to be used as a local dump.

New Area- From the parking area walk south towards the nearby cliffs. The approach takes about 5 minutes.

Climbing

Rack: A 60m rope and 8 quickdraws will be sufficient for the sport routes. Many anchor bolts are widely spaced so long slings, webbing, or cordelette may be necessary for building anchors. The gear routes require a few cams up to 4 inches.

Routes with an "*" are area favorites/classics.
Walls and routes are listed from left to right.

Mentmore Original Area (5.3-5.12a) - 39 routes

Descent/Top-Rope Access: The trail leading to the north end of the cliff allows for access to the top of the cliffs. This can be used to set up top-ropes or to descend. Even if it is calm below it can get quite windy up here. You may want an anchor system or daisy chain when setting up top-ropes. Some routes must be led since top-rope access is not possible.

Sport Homo Wall (5.3-5.12a) - 6 routes
Mr. Moto (5.8)- Crack climb; requires gear
I'm Just a Hoppy Little Bunny (5.10b)- 6 bolts to bolted anchor
Redemption (5.10d/11a)- Crack climb; requires gear
The Demon Within (5.12a)- The hardest route at Mentmore. Short bouldery route; 3 bolts to bolted anchor.
Duuuuuude! (5.10d)- 6 bolts to bolted anchor
Leaning Slab (5.3)- The easiest route at Mentmore; bolted.

Slab Wall (5.8-5.11a/b) - 6 routes
Skin of my Shin (5.10d)- 4 bolts to bolted anchor
Pillow Roof (5.11a/b)- 6 bolts to bolted anchor
No Identity but a Title (5.10c/d)- 4 bolts to bolted anchor
*Looking for Daniel (5.8)- 6 bolts to bolted anchor
Pseudo-Supercrack (5.9+)- Crack climb; requires gear
Stick Your Fist Here (5.8)- Crack climb; requires gear


Swallow Wall (5.10b-5.11b) - 3 routes
Hookeymaster (5.10b)- 6 bolts to bolted anchor
*Muy Enfermo (5.10c)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor
Stuck in Puberty (5.11b)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor; shares anchors and top bolts with D.D.M.

Bivy Wall (5.10b-5.11c) - 2 routes
D.D.M. (5.10b)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor; shares anchors and top bolts with Stuck in Puberty
M3G (My Three Girls) (5.11c)- 8 bolts to bolted anchor

Benny Silva Wall (5.8-5.11b/c) - 10 routes
Fetis Envy (5.8)- Crack climb; requires gear
Razors from Heaven (5.10d)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor
Unknown 1 (5.?) - Unknown route with top-rope anchors.
*Joe's Crack (5.8)- Crack climb; requires gear although there are anchors at the top so top-roping is possible.
From CZ with Love (5.11b/c)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Rapture (5.10a)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Unknown 2 (5.?) - Unknown route with top-rope anchors. Probably somewhere around 5.10.
Unknown 3 (5.?) - Unknown route with top-rope anchors. Probably somewhere around 5.10.
Big Blobs of Love (5.8)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Tres Amigos (5.11a)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor. Going left or right of the bolted line offers easier variations.

Health Wall (5.7-5.11d) - 12 routes
May Cause Health Problems (5.9)- Crack climb; requires gear although there are anchors at the top so top-roping is possible.
Not Suitable for Pregnant Women (5.11a)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor
Unknown 4 (5.?) - Unknown route with top-rope anchors. Probably somewhere around 5.10 or 5.11.
Magnum Cum Masochist (5.10a)- 6 bolts to bolted anchor
STD (Short Tenuous Deckability) (5.7)- Supposedly a gear route but does not take gear well in many places. It has anchors so it is usually top-roped; fun climb.
The Inner Sanctum (5.10a)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Raggae's Route (5.10c/d)- 4 bolts to bolted anchor
The Why Crack (5.7)- Crack climb; requires gear although there are anchors at the top so top-roping is possible.
Phalanx (5.10a)- Crack climb; requires gear although there are anchors at the top so top-roping is possible.
Smegma Deluxe (5.11d)- 6 bolts to bolted anchor
Piled High (5.9+ R/X)- Crack climb; requires gear
Rob's an A (5.11b)- 4 bolts to bolted anchor

Memtmore New Area (5.6-5.11c) - 28 routes

Descent/Top-Rope Access: On the south end of the cliffs before entering the Corridor there is a trail leading to the top of the cliffs. Top-Ropes can be set up from here. Some routes must be led since top-rope access is not possible.

Corridor(5.9-5.10c) - 9 routes
Stranded (5.9)- 4 bolts to chain anchor
Breakfast at Denny's (5.10a)- 4 bolts to bolted anchor
Twigs and No Berries (5.10b)- 4 bolts to bolted anchor
High Stepping (5.10a)- 3 bolts to bolted anchor
Blood Donation Station (5.9)- Crack climb; requires gear
Butter Toe's (5.10c)- 4 bolts to chain anchor
Five O'clock Shadow (5.10a)- 5 bolts to chain anchor
Marvin Bolted Line (5.10b/c)- 8 bolts to bolted anchor
Pumping Beauty (5.10c)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor

Wall of Dreams(5.8-5.11c) - 9 routes
Reach Around (5.10c)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
*Flakes Don't Fail Me Now (5.10b)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor
Sink or Swim (5.11b)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor
Crack (5.9)- Crack climb; requires gear to chain anchor
On the Edge (5.11c)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Stolen Dreams (5.11a)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Chai Tea (5.10b)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Time Bandits (5.10c)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Crescent Moon (5.10d)- 6 bolts to bolted anchor

The Balcony (5.6-5.10b) - 10 routes
Ego Terrorists (5.9)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor
10 'til 8 (5.9)- 7 bolts to bolted anchor
Purchase Agreement (5.8)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Betty's Friend (5.9)- 3 bolts to bolted anchor
Betty's Redemption (5.8)- 4 bolts to bolted anchor
Crow's Feet (5.10b)- 5 bolts to bolted anchor
Opie Ate for the Masses (5.7)- 4 bolts to bolted anchor
Nothing but Mayo (5.7)- 3 bolts to bolted anchor
Crack (5.6)- Crack climb; requires gear to bolted anchor
Tuna Melt (5.7)- 3 bolts to bolted anchor

Note: Over the years the "New" area has seen many climbs added each year. This list may not contain all climbs in the area.

Camping

Free camping is available in the parking area or fee sites are available at nearby Red Rocks State Park. There are also many cheap hotels nearby on Route 66.

External Links

Red Rocks State Park Camping
Rockclimbing.com entry for Mentmore

Images

View Mentmore Image Gallery - 8 Images