Mera Peak Summit

Mera Peak Summit

We climbed Mera Peak on april 23 2009. The normal route (on the left side) is blocked by a huge crevass. Most expeditions stop at 30/40 meters below the summit now (on the ridge of the crevass). The summit can be reached however by going to the right side (north). Just behind the ridge you see on the picture you can climb the last 30/40 meters to the summit. It is steep, but technical not too difficult.
Robin Baks
on May 17, 2009 2:25 pm
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 514207


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LS - Nov 27, 2013 4:18 pm - Hasn't voted


This is so funny! Even after they change the normal route from 2010 (because of a crevasse near the central summit), organizers still continue to do the lower Central Summit (false summit), although the slightly higher North Summit is both easier and not any further away. So with the new route from 2010, people now go to the saddle between Central and North Summit (see your photo!!) and from there they climb the WRONG summit. What the fuck!

I quote:
"The south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m), the highest, which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the north and following a snow ridge to its top. Climbing the Central summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is more technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb."

Westerns come a long way to do a 6000m peak, but the scammers in Kathmandu brings them to a bump on the ridge (Central summit) which lately has become more "technical" than the true summit (North summit). It's a contradiction I can't understand.

The organizers in Nepal are totally brain-dead. They operate as they always have done on Mera Peak. They are not able to CHANGE. They just operate by old habbits. What a bunch of scammers. Maybe they don't know any better, because they just sit in their office, they are never out in the field. Then they instruct the sherpa's to do the false summit, the one they have always done. What a bunch of loosers !

For more information about the controversy, please read here:

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